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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Start 10m right of the large tree at a clear strip of rock. Climb the wall left of a pinnacle to a ledge at 4m and then move right to a ledge above the pinnacle itself. The thin slab above gains another ledge, from where a rightward line up the continuation slab reaches a gully and tree belay above. © Rockfax


Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook


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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 19
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Orange Wall

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)

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