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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
An appealing line that has been cleared of ivy. Start at a tapering corner/groove. Gain the corner/groove and follow it to a hollow sounding block. Move left to the rib and then onto a small ledge above. Ascend the rib to the headwall, where a steep thin crack-line on the right leads to the top and tree belays. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Wye Valley must do , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tom Brierley 17 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Dismayed to see this completely reclaimed by ivy having particularly enjoyed it's former clean glory 6 years ago... Arrogantly endevoured to clear it while leading from the ground up, fairly happy to have managed to get 3/4 of the way without weighting gear while hacking through the giant blanket (rated i5 - i is for ivy). I've cleared a path through just barely to the top of the bold section, but it was too sketchy and muddy to push further so retreated and abed off the first block. All but the last section in direct path of climbing is cleared, the last part would be best cleared from top, and the rest of the blanket could do with being stripped to prevent it growing back.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Dismayed to see this completely reclaimed by ivy having particularly enjoyed it's former clean glory 6 years ago... Arrogantly endevoured to clear it while leading from the ground up, fairly happy to have managed to get 3/4 of the way without weighting gear while hacking through the giant blanket (rated i5 - i is for ivy). I've cleared a path through just barely to the top of the bold section, but it was too sketchy and muddy to push further so retreated and abed off the first block. All but the last section in direct path of climbing is cleared, the last part would be best cleared from top, and the rest of the blanket could do with being stripped to prevent it growing back.
GeorgT 14 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: This route is seriously overgrown with ivy and needs some proper maintenance before being climbable again. That said, if you like severe gardening whilst climbing, this won't disappoint you. I'm sure the route still holds its gratification under all that overgrowth. Same overgrowth situation can be said for the majority of routes at this buttress.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is seriously overgrown with ivy and needs some proper maintenance before being climbable again. That said, if you like severe gardening whilst climbing, this won't disappoint you. I'm sure the route still holds its gratification under all that overgrowth. Same overgrowth situation can be said for the majority of routes at this buttress.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 15
High 5c
Mid 5c
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Mid 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Kangaroo Wall

Grade: E2 6a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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