Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Varied and enjoyable climbing. Begin as for Emotional Dyslexia and once on the cliff itself, head up to the crack on the right. Follow the widening crack in its entirety. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the fallen block and step out left onto the face, follow this up and right to the base of the crack. Follow the the crack awkwardly up to a good tree belay.
Ticklists
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Emile.swain | 30 Sep, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected. |
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| Chrisjford | 17 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything) | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything) |
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| Sylwiiia | 13 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side. |
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| Max17 | 5 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before... | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before... |
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| Peppercorn | 31 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Zelda
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)