Rockfax Description
Varied and enjoyable climbing. Begin as for Emotional Dyslexia and once on the cliff itself, head up to the crack on the right. Follow the widening crack in its entirety. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the fallen block and step out left onto the face, follow this up and right to the base of the crack. Follow the the crack awkwardly up to a good tree belay.
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wye Valley Trad
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Hooo | 24 Aug |
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βeta: The boulder at the top looks really scary. It's only held up by a small tree, whuch is suffering as a result. I've added a photo. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The boulder at the top looks really scary. It's only held up by a small tree, whuch is suffering as a result. I've added a photo. |
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Jem Cowen | 18 Aug |
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βeta: WARNING - I've climbed this several times over the past 20+ years and the large boulder (think 2m cube) at the top (in front of the stance) looks more precarious than ever. The boulder appears to be held in place by a tree which will probably yield in time. This issue isn't apparent from the ground, so please be aware. Said boulder is also above Emotional Dyslexia (incl the direct start), at least. | βeta? | |
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βeta: WARNING - I've climbed this several times over the past 20+ years and the large boulder (think 2m cube) at the top (in front of the stance) looks more precarious than ever. The boulder appears to be held in place by a tree which will probably yield in time. This issue isn't apparent from the ground, so please be aware. Said boulder is also above Emotional Dyslexia (incl the direct start), at least. |
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PaulinEE | 10 Jul |
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βeta: Fun route!! So much fun that I donated my purple cam to the crag :-S silly me :-( | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fun route!! So much fun that I donated my purple cam to the crag :-S silly me :-( |
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Emile.swain | 30 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected. | ||
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βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected. |
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Chrisjford | 17 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything) |
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Sylwiiia | 13 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side. | βeta? | |
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βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side. |
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Max17 | 5 Sep, 2020 |
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βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before... | βeta? | |
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βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before... |
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Peppercorn | 31 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid. | ||
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βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid. |
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Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)