UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Varied and enjoyable climbing. Begin as for Emotional Dyslexia and once on the cliff itself, head up to the crack on the right. Follow the widening crack in its entirety. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the fallen block and step out left onto the face, follow this up and right to the base of the crack. Follow the the crack awkwardly up to a good tree belay.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Wye Valley Trad

Feedback

User Date Notes
Hooo 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: The boulder at the top looks really scary. It's only held up by a small tree, whuch is suffering as a result. I've added a photo.
βeta?
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βeta: The boulder at the top looks really scary. It's only held up by a small tree, whuch is suffering as a result. I've added a photo.
Jem Cowen 18 Aug Show βeta
βeta: WARNING - I've climbed this several times over the past 20+ years and the large boulder (think 2m cube) at the top (in front of the stance) looks more precarious than ever. The boulder appears to be held in place by a tree which will probably yield in time. This issue isn't apparent from the ground, so please be aware. Said boulder is also above Emotional Dyslexia (incl the direct start), at least.
βeta?
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βeta: WARNING - I've climbed this several times over the past 20+ years and the large boulder (think 2m cube) at the top (in front of the stance) looks more precarious than ever. The boulder appears to be held in place by a tree which will probably yield in time. This issue isn't apparent from the ground, so please be aware. Said boulder is also above Emotional Dyslexia (incl the direct start), at least.
PaulinEE 10 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Fun route!! So much fun that I donated my purple cam to the crag :-S silly me :-(
βeta?
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βeta: Fun route!! So much fun that I donated my purple cam to the crag :-S silly me :-(
Emile.swain 30 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected.
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βeta: Quite enjoyable, nice shelter belay area and solid anchors at the top. Not as greasy as the first climb of the day, one for all. Interesting crack, solid hand and foot holds, takes some thinking. Don’t use the peg to the left to avoid rope drag. End felt bold as didn’t have massive cams for the last part of the crack before the tree. Much more enjoyable than I expected.
Chrisjford 17 Jun, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything)
βeta?
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βeta: Hornets nest appears to have gone now (or at least we didn't see anything)
Sylwiiia 13 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side.
βeta?
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βeta: hornets nest on the top so be careful, or go to the side.
Max17 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before...
βeta?
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βeta: Hornets nest still there near the top! Wish I had looked at UKC before...
Peppercorn 31 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid.
Show beta
βeta: Currently a hornets nest in the dead tree just below the belay. I traversed out left to an alternate tree belay to avoid.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 63
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 72
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Left Hand Route

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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