Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
The full-height line of cracks on the right-hand side of the wall is a good sustained climb that eases with height. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Orange Spot Lower Wye , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Top 50 Most Logged Climbs in the South West , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Emile.swain | 30 Sep, 2023 |
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βeta: 2nded. Dirty grimy climb, if you like that kind of thing it’s an ok route. Ripped of small hold at start and slipped later. Glad I wasn’t leading. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: 2nded. Dirty grimy climb, if you like that kind of thing it’s an ok route. Ripped of small hold at start and slipped later. Glad I wasn’t leading. |
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| Paul Robertson | 18 May, 2020 |
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βeta: A bit grassy in places. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A bit grassy in places. |
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| George Geo | 25 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: A kettle sized block and 2 smasher blocks have fallen from this route since our last visit 3 weeks ago and can be seen on the floor. The position from where they fell seems very solid but be mindful that there has been a recent rockfall and do wear your lids. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A kettle sized block and 2 smasher blocks have fallen from this route since our last visit 3 weeks ago and can be seen on the floor. The position from where they fell seems very solid but be mindful that there has been a recent rockfall and do wear your lids. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Zelda
Grade: HS 4b ***
(Wintour's Leap)