Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Climb the thin crack of War of the Worlds and at 3m, gain a crack on the right. Follow the crack and wall above until tricky climbing rightwards (care with rock) joins The Phoney War. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start on the white spotted pedestal (as per War of the Worlds), when possible step right into the crystalline crack and climb it until the ledge (gear out right). Traverse left and finish up under the tree as per War of The Worlds.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Bruise Apprentice | 30 May, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: Huge block spontaneously dislodged itself from the top of this route while climbers were on The Phoney War, falling in a wide arc and landing somewhere in the trees. Take care not to linger too long at the base. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Huge block spontaneously dislodged itself from the top of this route while climbers were on The Phoney War, falling in a wide arc and landing somewhere in the trees. Take care not to linger too long at the base. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Orange Wall
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Symonds Yat)