Restricted Access

The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Rockfax Description
Approach the route across an unstable scree slope. Climb to a concretion hold in the wall of flowstone and then gain another above. Move right to a rib and then up left to an open groove. Take the groove to an easing, move right and head up to the top. © Rockfax


Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Cool Names , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , Wye Valley Starred E1-E3


User Date Notes
Bruise Apprentice 20 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Best to approach this from the Gnome Pinnacle side of the crag rather than R3a path.
Show beta
βeta: Best to approach this from the Gnome Pinnacle side of the crag rather than R3a path.

Logged Ascents

298 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 47 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 68
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 56
Style of Ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lunar Bass

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Coaley Wood Crag)

Loading Notifications...