UKC

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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

15m.

Rockfax Description
A very pleasant but short wall pitch. Start 3m right of East to West. From a small ledge, make tricky moves to the next ledge. Trend left and follow pocketed rock and a small flake to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start around 3 metres right of the corner and mount the small ledge. Tricky moves lead to the next ledge and good gear before trending left and following the pocketed rock to a small flake crack and above a tree belay.

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS)

Feedback

User Date Notes
jrose99 23 Oct, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The large boulder at the bottom is (clearly) freshly unearthed from what looked like a huge safe buried slot in the ground. I stood on it to gain the wall. It flipped on its side and I went with it. Landed on my foot and broke 1st and 2nd metatarsal. Be careful of that boulder.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The large boulder at the bottom is (clearly) freshly unearthed from what looked like a huge safe buried slot in the ground. I stood on it to gain the wall. It flipped on its side and I went with it. Landed on my foot and broke 1st and 2nd metatarsal. Be careful of that boulder.
judethesaint 5 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: fantastic route on great rock.
Show beta
βeta: fantastic route on great rock.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 110
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 106
Votes cast 98
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Freedom

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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