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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Similar to Llamas in the Loft . From right of the block at the base of the crag, boulder up the wall to a small overlap. Continue up the rib above to meet loose ground that leads to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A good route worth doing it has gritstone like texture and appearance and is on “The Buttress with No Name”. Climb the thin bolder problem up the almost blank face for 5 meters to an obvious seam (gear). Once there climb up the obvious arête to the top. The thread is tricky to find and not as secure as the name might suggest.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Angel's Girdle
Grade: VS 5a ***
(Wintour's Leap)