Restricted Access

The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds


Rockfax Description
The line of Shorn Cliff. It is very protectable but also very sustained. An HVS pitch justifiably on the wish list of many. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The obvious polished shallow groove/finger crack.

M. Ward, P. Begley 15/Jul/1984.


Orange Spot Lower Wye , CUMC Ticklist , Shorn Cliff Nose , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 100 Best South West Mid Grade Routes , But what have you done on South-East Wales Sandstone/Limestone? , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , Wye's it a trad classic (up to HVS)? , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Bristol Area Easy Trad Ticklist , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook , 23 HVS routes for 2023 , Road to lundy


User Date Notes
freelunchprovider 11 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Becoming polished since first ascent by R.Thomas and Steve Moss 1975
Show beta
βeta: Becoming polished since first ascent by R.Thomas and Steve Moss 1975

Logged Ascents

956 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 213 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 194
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 179
Votes cast 166
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Organ Grinder

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)

Loading Notifications...