Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Start at the boulder where the approach meets the base of the crag. Gain a vegetated ledge and then a peg at an overlap to the right. Move past the overlap on its left and then go back right above. Take the vague scoop above until the rib on the left can be followed to a tree. Traverse up rightwards to a big tree on the edge of the cliff. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Shorn Cliff Nose , Shorn Cliff HVS and E1 *'d Routes , CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, blue list (VS and HVS) , Shorn cliff starred routes HVS-E1 according to guidebook
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Colin Knowles | 21 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Wild bees nest in ash tree at base of route. July 2021 | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Wild bees nest in ash tree at base of route. July 2021 |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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The Laughing Cavaliers
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Shorn Cliff)