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The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.

Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 April to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

15m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the wide rightward-leading crack, starting at some stacked perched blocks. © Rockfax

Ticklists

CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes

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User Date Notes
Angus Bloomfield 1 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bees nest no longer occupied. It's a beautiful thing but quite a shock when you first see it!
Show beta
βeta: Bees nest no longer occupied. It's a beautiful thing but quite a shock when you first see it!
timbo 2 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bee's nest still there September 2nd 2019. We retreated using a sling round a very wobbly boulder
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bee's nest still there September 2nd 2019. We retreated using a sling round a very wobbly boulder
jamesca 30 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Bees nest in the crack
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bees nest in the crack

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff

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Voting
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
Votes cast 39
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
High 3c
Mid 3c
Low 3c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Central Rib Route I

Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)

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