Restricted Access
The rock at Shorncliffe is generally sound, but there are some areas of more questionable rock which need to be treated with caution - in particular at the top of the crag where the last few metres can be more broken. Placing an extra piece of gear or two in solid rock before topping out is worth considering.
Descent for all routes is by abseil from trees at the top of the routes. These have been fitted with rope slings and abseil rings to prevent damage to the trees so please use them, but don't forget to check the anchors (both the strength of the tree and the quality of the rope and ring) before commiting to using them. It is also worth having some spare cord to replace any rope which is showing wear. A single 60m rope doubled over should allow you to reach the ground on all routes but double check first.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 April to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
Rockfax Description
Climb the wide rightward-leading crack, starting at some stacked perched blocks. © Rockfax
Ticklists
CC Wye Valley and Forest of Dean trad stars, green list (HS and below) , Wye Valley Vdiffs's and Severes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Angus Bloomfield | 1 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Bees nest no longer occupied. It's a beautiful thing but quite a shock when you first see it! | ||
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βeta: Bees nest no longer occupied. It's a beautiful thing but quite a shock when you first see it! |
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| timbo | 2 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: Bee's nest still there September 2nd 2019. We retreated using a sling round a very wobbly boulder | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bee's nest still there September 2nd 2019. We retreated using a sling round a very wobbly boulder |
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| jamesca | 30 Jul, 2019 |
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βeta: Bees nest in the crack | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bees nest in the crack |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Shorn Cliff
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Central Rib Route I
Grade: S 4a ***
(Wintour's Leap)