UKC

65m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant climb on magnificent rock. Intimidating, but not that hard, most of the gear is fixed although some might find a small rack welcome.
1) 3, 15m. Make an easy rising traverse onto a sloping ledge.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the ledge, move out right until you are below a wide crack. Sprint up this to a hanging stance above.
3) 6a+, 30m. Climb steeply leftwards, then finish up the slab above, past a few bits of fixed gear, to the diagonal grassy break. Belay a long way up left along the sloping ledge. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50, Costa Blanca 25 by 2025

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User Date Notes
aharrison24 16 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Found the condition of the bolts quite worrying. Wires strongly recommended.
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βeta: Found the condition of the bolts quite worrying. Wires strongly recommended.
dinodinosaur 25 Nov, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Some tat threads are looking worse for wear and could do with replacing, I would have done it if I'd brought my spare tat with me.
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βeta: Some tat threads are looking worse for wear and could do with replacing, I would have done it if I'd brought my spare tat with me.
Chad123 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route as said, first pitch is the trad one, steep but juggy. Second is pretty much a clip up and a good change in style, being slabbier and more technical. I would rope up on traverse, not super easy as said
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βeta: Great route as said, first pitch is the trad one, steep but juggy. Second is pretty much a clip up and a good change in style, being slabbier and more technical. I would rope up on traverse, not super easy as said
Kyuzo 9 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Exciting and very enjoyable route. Definitly worthwhile. It is now reasonably well bolted so probably not as scary as E2.
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βeta: Exciting and very enjoyable route. Definitly worthwhile. It is now reasonably well bolted so probably not as scary as E2.
Oli 7 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts seem a bit spaced when getting pumped and needing to clip, but nevertheless the route can be done with no nuts. Placed one nut on whole route, between traverse belay and first bolt.
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βeta: Bolts seem a bit spaced when getting pumped and needing to clip, but nevertheless the route can be done with no nuts. Placed one nut on whole route, between traverse belay and first bolt.
WCC 21 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: No need to take a rack with you on this now unless you are unnerved by the 12 ft between bolts. A great line and now has three bolt belay at top of second pitch
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βeta: No need to take a rack with you on this now unless you are unnerved by the 12 ft between bolts. A great line and now has three bolt belay at top of second pitch
derekm 19 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: wonderful route, combining strenuous steep big crack climbing on pitch 1 with thin slab stuff above. Don't underestimate the approach to pitch 1: its a thin grade 4+ traverse with little protection apart from a frayed rope handrail! Recently rebolted, it would be nice if someone took a spanner with them to take out the old rusty hangers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: wonderful route, combining strenuous steep big crack climbing on pitch 1 with thin slab stuff above. Don't underestimate the approach to pitch 1: its a thin grade 4+ traverse with little protection apart from a frayed rope handrail! Recently rebolted, it would be nice if someone took a spanner with them to take out the old rusty hangers.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 33
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Vía yuyuba

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)
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