UKC

70m, 3 pitches. A fabulous addition to these sea cliffs.
To reach the abseil station, go beyond MMT for about 100m. A small rock bridge will be seen with some bolts at the top. Just left of this and at the cliff edge is a single bolt and just over the edge is the double bolted abseil station. About 45m to ledges above the sea.
The route starts just behind where the abseil lands.
3 pitches, all about 20m and very well bolted. for the 2nd pitch it is necessary to enter fully into the chimney.
Although the route has been graded 6a+, it felt about 5+/6a max. Exposure is pretty wild throughout.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Deano.Nev 16 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome climb, definitely not a 6a+, the middle pitch maybe a soft 6a. Definitely should be in the top 50, awesome abseil down, lovely route and nice finish !!
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βeta: Awesome climb, definitely not a 6a+, the middle pitch maybe a soft 6a. Definitely should be in the top 50, awesome abseil down, lovely route and nice finish !!
lithos 12 Dec, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: it's less than 50m to the sea, lower your ropes carefully if they are 50+m rather than throwing them and having wet ends, just saying.!
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βeta: it's less than 50m to the sea, lower your ropes carefully if they are 50+m rather than throwing them and having wet ends, just saying.!
nnf7 20 Jan, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: First pitches traverses quite a way, so some long draws may be helpful
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βeta: First pitches traverses quite a way, so some long draws may be helpful
Climb Psyched 26 Dec, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Works well in 2 pitches. Climb pitch 1 as normal and then all the way to the top. Climbing through the cave is great fun.
βeta?
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βeta: Works well in 2 pitches. Climb pitch 1 as normal and then all the way to the top. Climbing through the cave is great fun.

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Voting
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Parle

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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