UKC

62m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine and popular route up the impressive flake crack high on the face. It is the original route of the crag, put up in June 1977. The first pitch is a pleasant intro, but the flake on the second one is where it's at.
1) 4, 32m. Climb the wall just right of the groove with deviations to the left as and when needed. Belay by a tree.
2) 5, 30m. Climb cracks, then a short tricky wall to the layback flake. Go up this - easy but spooky - then continue to higher ledges and a choice of belays. Descend by abseil. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa Blanca 25 by 2025 , Costa Blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 21 Nov Show βeta
βeta: Both pitches are good but the top pitch is epic. It was windy when we were there and felt pretty exciting. Well bolted all the way, there are a couple of dubious looking older bolts but new bolts nearby. 4 single unequalised bolts at the top. If you traverse 5m (easily done on a good ledge) you will reach 2 equalised bolts. We went to the ground on here on 2 70m ropes, but you can land on the line of another route and make another abseil from here (unsure of how far that is maybe 35m) and then make another abseil to the ground.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Both pitches are good but the top pitch is epic. It was windy when we were there and felt pretty exciting. Well bolted all the way, there are a couple of dubious looking older bolts but new bolts nearby. 4 single unequalised bolts at the top. If you traverse 5m (easily done on a good ledge) you will reach 2 equalised bolts. We went to the ground on here on 2 70m ropes, but you can land on the line of another route and make another abseil from here (unsure of how far that is maybe 35m) and then make another abseil to the ground.
Tall Oak 14 Jan Show βeta
βeta: 2nd pitch is the money pitch. Epic. So much fun. Well done Alex on the lead for both pitches
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 2nd pitch is the money pitch. Epic. So much fun. Well done Alex on the lead for both pitches
alex505c 8 Feb, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Some bolts on the second pitch look a bit old and rusty. Also, there's a fairly large loose flake about halfway up the second pitch. Very fun route though.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some bolts on the second pitch look a bit old and rusty. Also, there's a fairly large loose flake about halfway up the second pitch. Very fun route though.
stephenmckenzie 20 Jan, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Bolts on second pitch look a bit rusty.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bolts on second pitch look a bit rusty.
tapley 3 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Three star route, but bolts on the second pitch are becoming rusty
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Three star route, but bolts on the second pitch are becoming rusty
Nick Smith - Climbers 28 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant route :)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Brilliant route :)
StefanB 10 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Second pitch felt really hard compared to other 5s on the crag. Gear a bit old now. With trad gear one can continue up and left to the crest and follow the upper part of Amarillo. That's how it is described in my Spanish guide book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Second pitch felt really hard compared to other 5s on the crag. Gear a bit old now. With trad gear one can continue up and left to the crest and follow the upper part of Amarillo. That's how it is described in my Spanish guide book.

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Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
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Followed
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Route of Interest
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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