UKC

120m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A route with a fine top pitch. Start in the gully at the name.
1) 4, 26m. Take the line of threads and bolts to a stance.
2) 3, 25m. Continue up slabs (easy but very little gear) to the mid-height ledge.
3) 4, 28m. Climb up for 4m then trend rightwards up the weakness to a stance on the abseil line.
4) 5, 25m. Follow the line of the rightward-trending ramp with well-spaced bolt protection and great positions. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A route with a fine top pitch. Start in the gully at the name.
1) 4, 26m. Take the line of threads and bolts to a good stance.
2) 3, 34m. Continue up slabs (threads) to the mid-height ledge.
3) 4, 30m. Up for 4m then trend rightwards up the weakness.
4) 5, 30m. Follow the line of the rightward-trending ramp with well-spaced bolt protection and great positions.

Best to abseil (2 pitches) down Ana/Lofi etc and don't attempt to abseil back down the traverse on pitch 4

FA. Hannelore and Kurt Krentzenbeck 2000s Equipped by Horst Urban. 2005.

Feedback

User Date Notes
StefanB 6 Mar, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: The last two pitches are amazing! The final pitch is scarier to second than to lead, as there is scope for a big pendulum, if falling off the crux move.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The last two pitches are amazing! The final pitch is scarier to second than to lead, as there is scope for a big pendulum, if falling off the crux move.

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High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 29
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rowland's Magical Mystery Tour

Grade: 5a ***
(Sierra de Toix)

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