Restricted Access
The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 February to 31 May
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.
Rockfax Description
The left-hand side of the pillar gives decent climbing to a final section direct past the final bolt. Slink left around this at 6a. © Rockfax
FA. Gary Gibson, Nick Taylor 2002.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Gary Gibson | 5 Aug, 2007 |
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βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07 |
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| Fidget | 16 May, 2007 |
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βeta: This route was mentioned in an article in Climber, and states that it features a through-cave, but I can't see it clearly on the photo topo in Northern Limestone. Is it a real through-cave, or just an open cave? i.e. does it go 'through' to somewhere, or do you just go in and out the same way? | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route was mentioned in an article in Climber, and states that it features a through-cave, but I can't see it clearly on the photo topo in Northern Limestone. Is it a real through-cave, or just an open cave? i.e. does it go 'through' to somewhere, or do you just go in and out the same way? |
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| Paul Evans | 12 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Agree with this. Going left is the way to keep the grade but feels wrong, going straight up past the final bolt is way harder. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Agree with this. Going left is the way to keep the grade but feels wrong, going straight up past the final bolt is way harder. |
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| Chris the Tall | 5 Aug, 2004 |
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βeta: A bit scrapy with a confusing finish - if you go left it's 6a but feels like cheating, going right is a better line but at least 6b. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A bit scrapy with a confusing finish - if you go left it's 6a but feels like cheating, going right is a better line but at least 6b. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry
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Apollo Creed
Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)