UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

20m.

Rockfax Description
A good lower wall and a hard move back right above the (hollow?) roof to gain the final groove. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1995.

Ticklists

The Gary Gibson Stranglers Playlist

Feedback

User Date Notes
Al Doig 12 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: A large block (30cm x 30cm x 20cm) detached from down and right from the 5th bolt. I would treat the undercuts/blocks with caution in this area. It would also be a good idea for belayers to stand off to one side. The offending block made a mess of my rope bag and amazingly missed Stevie (the dog) and I.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A large block (30cm x 30cm x 20cm) detached from down and right from the 5th bolt. I would treat the undercuts/blocks with caution in this area. It would also be a good idea for belayers to stand off to one side. The offending block made a mess of my rope bag and amazingly missed Stevie (the dog) and I.
Gary Gibson 20 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. Gary Gibson
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Rebolted with substantial new gear where hangers previously existed. New belays added. Gary Gibson

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 19
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Supercrack (Sport)

Grade: 7a ***
(Lorry Park Quarry)

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