UKC

Restricted Access

The crag is on private land and continued access depends on climbers maintaining our good relationship with the landowner, who runs his business from the lorry park in the quarry. Be friendly if you meet the owner or his employees and make sure you follow the new access route (details below) to avoid any problems.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 31 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

2024 - no restriction - the Raven nest on Going Straight wall does not appear to be in use this year - please report if you see any activity.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A steep start left of the adit entrance leads up the wall to a good finish up a crack. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Nick Taylor, Andy Beaumont 2002.

Ticklists

Peak sport for mortals

Feedback

User Date Notes
profonrock 23 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Nice 6a+ after bolt 3, but this route has a small foothold that is now very polished where you clip bolt 2, in the middle of the tricky section (at least 6b, IMO); my (very old) boots slipped off this unexpectedly, so beware. If this happened whilst trying to clip the bolt, you could easily ground fall. Worth thinking about clip-sticking bolt 2.
βeta?
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βeta: Nice 6a+ after bolt 3, but this route has a small foothold that is now very polished where you clip bolt 2, in the middle of the tricky section (at least 6b, IMO); my (very old) boots slipped off this unexpectedly, so beware. If this happened whilst trying to clip the bolt, you could easily ground fall. Worth thinking about clip-sticking bolt 2.
smoreda 16 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: On Northern Limestone (2004) and sportclimbs.com this route is the start RIGHT of the adit entrance.
βeta?
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βeta: On Northern Limestone (2004) and sportclimbs.com this route is the start RIGHT of the adit entrance.
Gary Gibson 5 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07
βeta?
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βeta: Belay renewed 4.8.07
Fiend 24 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Obvious why this only gets one star - whilst there is good climbing and some sections of nice rock, there's too much loose stuff nearby and sometimes on route. Proper F6b if you stay on the line.
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βeta: Obvious why this only gets one star - whilst there is good climbing and some sections of nice rock, there's too much loose stuff nearby and sometimes on route. Proper F6b if you stay on the line.
Alex Mason 10 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: nic route more like 2* 6a/+
βeta?
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βeta: nic route more like 2* 6a/+
Carl Smethurst 23 Aug, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Careful with the rock - my partner pulled a half-metre long block off this, which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries!
βeta?
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βeta: Careful with the rock - my partner pulled a half-metre long block off this, which clattered him on the way down. Fortunately only minor injuries!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Smalldale Quarry

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Voting
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 74
Votes cast 64
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Carls Walk Pool

Grade: 6a+ ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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