Restricted Access
The previous owner who had a history of violent altercations with climbers has passed away. The attitude of the current occupiers towards access for climbing is not known. If climbers are asked to leave or are challenged for being on the cliff please contact the BMC with details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 27 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal restrictions apply.
Summer 2022
Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.
Start about 10 m R of Green Light just R of a small deep hole.
P1. Go diagonally L below an overlap then up a bulging groove. Traverse R to a ramp. Up this to a break then do a wild and unprotected (after the start) but straightforward traverse L along the break to a stance.
P2 Pull up steeply to a break. Traverse R for 3 m then up to the next break. Move L on this then follow a diagonal line R to the top.
P1. Go diagonally L below an overlap then up a bulging groove. Traverse R to a ramp. Up this to a break then do a wild and unprotected (after the start) but straightforward traverse L along the break to a stance.
P2 Pull up steeply to a break. Traverse R for 3 m then up to the next break. Move L on this then follow a diagonal line R to the top.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Misha | 21 Sep, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Can be done in one pitch if you take loads of extenders and a double set of cams and don’t place too much gear (there isn’t that much anyway). In some ways this is safer as the second gets a rope from above for the unprotected traverse left, plus the half way stance isn’t that great and rather birdy. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Can be done in one pitch if you take loads of extenders and a double set of cams and don’t place too much gear (there isn’t that much anyway). In some ways this is safer as the second gets a rope from above for the unprotected traverse left, plus the half way stance isn’t that great and rather birdy. |
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Route of Interest
Resolution Direct
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)