UKC

Restricted Access

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 February to 27 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Summer 2022

Birds have nested early and the restrictions are lifted for 2022 only.

 

A very important  sea- bird nesting area and seasonal restrictions apply to the whole crag. 

 

Rockfax Description
A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney faultline. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney. Follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery, then make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , UK Lonely Leads , The Road to Shibboleth , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , 30 For My 30s , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
CLH387 13 Sep, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The ‘traverse’ left is actually about two/three moves as opposed to 4m. Poor description from Rockfax
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The ‘traverse’ left is actually about two/three moves as opposed to 4m. Poor description from Rockfax
planetmarshall 27 Sep, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Found both the GroundUp and Rockfax descriptions to be unnecessarily confusing. The second pitch goes in a plumb straight line, it is logical, never "looks impossible" and there is never any need to traverse left. Route finding couldn't be easier.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Found both the GroundUp and Rockfax descriptions to be unnecessarily confusing. The second pitch goes in a plumb straight line, it is logical, never "looks impossible" and there is never any need to traverse left. Route finding couldn't be easier.
barny 1 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary but not AFAICT loose rock but what a position! I would advise not thinking of this route as one to push your grade on because failure is not a viable option - much more sensible to do this when you're confident/competent on E2+/3 and fancy the adventure. YHABW - caveat emptor.
Andy Stewart2 15 Sep, 2018 Show βeta
βeta: From the ledge at the top of the short right facing corner (start of pitch 1), don't go straight on up the quartzy vein like we did, even if it does look attractive (Red Haze- not the best warm up.). Never found the traverse on pitch 2, but followed the obvious line to a step left at a steep block with a welcome spike runner just below the crap belay. Awesome pitch- no pushover at the grade! Although it pains me to admit...If only we'd had the Rockfax description!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: From the ledge at the top of the short right facing corner (start of pitch 1), don't go straight on up the quartzy vein like we did, even if it does look attractive (Red Haze- not the best warm up.). Never found the traverse on pitch 2, but followed the obvious line to a step left at a steep block with a welcome spike runner just below the crap belay. Awesome pitch- no pushover at the grade! Although it pains me to admit...If only we'd had the Rockfax description!

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 42
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 42
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Quartz Icicle

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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