Rockfax Description
A great route, with tricky route finding on the main pitch, and an appalling belay, which can be avoided by linking the second and third pitches. Start at the top of a rocky gully, by a spike belay.
1) 5a, 34m. Move left to a right-facing groove and climb this to a ledge. Up and right is a left-facing groove, between you and this feature is some exciting but ultimately easy ground. Move through the weirdness and follow the groove, which leads right to a ledge.
2) 5b, 30m. Head up and slightly left, into the sandy chimney fault-line. Follow this to just below a peg, where the way forward looks impossible. Traverse left here, for about 4m, until you can make a move up into another chimney, follow this to a shallow depression and a host of ironmongery and make a poor but memorable belay on these stubs and some cams in what appears to be dust, or carry on up P3 to the top.
3) 5a, 20m. Continue up the chimney line, passing numerous spikes and dodgy rock, to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The starting rung on the foot ladder of extreme ledge shuffling.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, The Road to Shibboleth.

Dave Almond 15/Oct/17 AltLd rpt

Just as exciting 2nd time possibly enhanced by hurricane Ophelia and a slightly damp day.

with Pete Harrison
Hidden ??/2017 -
scarmichael 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S

Fanatic climbing, lead p2 and p3 together, engaging climbing throughout! The Rock is fine if you choose your holds carefully. Defiantly one of the best leads I've done

with MSD
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Richard Kendrick 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
with Ellie
Hidden 05/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/16 -
Hidden 29/Sep/16 AltLd
joedean 15/Sep/16 AltLd
James-m-h 15/Sep/16 AltLd O/S
with joedean
Elliot King LC&CC 10/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

What a route steep and intimidating quite sustained climbing with a longish crux but boy was I scared!!!

with Andy brown
mattnuttall 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Andy lead P1... I lead P2 and 3 strung together... No sane person would belay in the sandy alcove of terrible rusting relics... Push on to the top, safer.

Andrew Wilson 28/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Andrew Sloan 25/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

This route has been on my tick list for many years and given the disparate logbook comments I was curious about the impending experience............and I have to say I thought it was fantastic! The abseil down to the start was totally intimidating. I loved the weird delicate rock and found the climbing technically absorbing. I am not a bold climber but thought the protection was plentiful and adequate. Well worth the long wait to tick it.

with pete
MichaelGallimore 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Cool rock! Similar to mousetrap.

JendeHoxar 22/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Flavio 14/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
DaveThexton 09/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Tom
natetan 07/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Did it in one pitch from top of stance/ledge thing on a half rope. The good gear, mostly threads, is pretty spaced (maybe put in 6 or 7 pieces) and the rock is sandy and delicate - care needs to be taken. An interesting experience - I enjoyed carefully moving through the rock trying not to weight anything in particular.

shed_hed 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

P1. How this is given 3 stars is beyond me. It's a vertical sandcastle with thin, snappy, sand filled flakes and holds sticking out of it that you climb up. The protection is scarce and the rock around the pro would probably crumble if you did fall, which could happen at anytime and feels like it is completely out of your control. The climbing was OK at best but terrifying on lead. If this cliff was anywhere else in the UK it would be declared a choss fest and wouldn't have any routes on it.

robpartridge 04/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
with Darren McMaster
adie84 01/Aug/16 -
Twid Turner ??/2016 -
joedean ??/2016 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
breed 17/Oct/15 AltLd

Rock and climbing wasn't as good as I was expecting, it's much better on the other routes I've done on red walls. Bit of an average classic.

Louishmouis 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
with Dad
Hidden 10/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
Hannes B 15/Sep/15 2nd
with John Crook
renetemple 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Absolutely amazing, questionably better than Mousetrap?...

with Kev Avery, Dave Sharpe
Hidden 12/Sep/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Sep/15 AltLd rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
lanky 01/Aug/15 AltLd
with Searle
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
The Grist 27/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Tom Doldon
Hidden 26/Sep/14 2nd
mike lawrence? 19/Sep/14 AltLd

gosh the roped scramble is truly awful in the wet but wow what a fantastic, full on climb. Led pitch 2 and 3 together which given the options for belaying at the top of the second seems well the best.

with FatRob
Andy Clarke 12/Sep/14 AltLd O/S

A grand day out. Done as less scary alternative after running away from first sight of Mousetrap. Pretty nerve-jangling on first encountering the talc & ginger biscuits of P1, but gear improves & line unfolds logically as you get higher. Dale ran P2&3 together because of fears about belay, but actually there's reasonable gear to back up the pegs. Led p1.

with Dale
lanky 10/Sep/14 AltLd
with Crook
Dale ?/Sep/14 AltLd

The best route I've done on a sea cliff so far, pure adventurneerng. From committing to the abb scary roped scramble and finding the route. First pitch is not 35m more like 15m. Me and andy had a bit of a debate about this. I lead the crux pitch and linked third pitch together. It all went well, I didn't find it that hard but was very glad to see the top. What a day what a route

with Andy
Brannock 23/Aug/14 -
Martin Haworth 23/Aug/14 AltLd rpt

Fantastic, scary.

Hidden 15/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Alex Mason 30/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Soaking wet. Like shinning up a sandy drainpipe

with George Ullrich
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Frank the Husky ??/2014 -
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Steve Long ??/2014 -
Dan Vaj 13/Oct/13 2nd O/S

quite loose

with James McHaffie
Derek Ryden 28/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

There is a good nut and Friend high up to back up poor belay at end of p2 (apparently you can also keep going and do pitches 2 and 3 in one).

with Elfyn Jones
Hidden 31/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Gezzer 20/Aug/13 AltLd

Great route in stupendous position.

Hidden 20/Aug/13 AltLd
Martin Haworth 18/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

Amazing route. Ran pitches 2 and 3 together.

James Oswald 04/Sep/12 2nd

This may be a compelling line up a compelling cliff but the climbing isn't very interested. Shite rock, amazing looking crag. Utterly serious. Never going down there again. 1 star. Scariest abseil I've done...

Hidden 03/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 03/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

P1 & 3. A very juggy romp on amazing rock.

climbingpixie 01/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Amazing route on an amazing crag.

with Andy
Hidden 01/Sep/12 2nd O/S
WB 25/Aug/12 AltLd O/S

Good route. Please to climb this after the epic last time we tried. Getting to the base of the route is the hardest part.

with Guy
Owain Llewelyn 03/Aug/12 AltLd rpt
with Gareth E
Owain Llewelyn 16/Jan/12 Lead
with Dad
Hidden 06/Nov/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
spacey 23/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Paul Evans 23/Sep/11 AltLd
with spacey
Hidden 02/Sep/11 Lead rpt
Owain Llewelyn 30/Aug/11 AltLd
with Doddy
Hidden 16/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
stevoland ?/Aug/11 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 AltLd
Hidden 14/Oct/10 Lead
philhilo 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Similar to Wendigo but harder if anything - but still easy. Don't bother with rotting mess of pegs on 2nd belay, run P2 & 3 together. Worth the wait...

with misha
phil64 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S


with chris guest
Misha 26/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

Great route on the weirdest rock I've ever climbed on. Thought it had a harder crux than Wendigo but was less sustained - in fact it's an easy jugfest for most of the way, just don't fall off! I led P1 and Phil led P2 and P3 together, missing out the dodgy belay, which looked like it wouldn't support a fly: only one of the pegs looked just about ok, though there are back up threads available higher up, if you trust them. Spent forever waiting for this route as the team in front was very slow (we abbed in from the side and didn't see that they had abbed in directly just before us).

with Phil
Hidden 18/Sep/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 17/Sep/10 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd
Hidden 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Lenny 26/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Steve
Rich Kirby 26/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Ewan
Sam1991 22/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Fantastic!! lead P1 and 3, both easy but really bold. Andy Lead P2, harder, but less bold. P3 especially is superb.

with Andy
Hidden 21/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
willoates 15/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

first route on red walls, great climb

with john
Sandy Simpson 13/Aug/10 -
with Ross Hewitt
Martin Cooper 08/Aug/10 Lead O/S

Hopeless guidebook description. Pitch 1 <25m. We belayed in sandy cave with peg above having traversed in from L (? Fantasia)which was hard to reverse. Seconding pitch 1 felt as bad as leading pitch 2 (which didn't seem too bad after initial L traverse from Belay). Never really noticed an intimidating move L across a wall. Joined piches 2&3 together- otherwise belay would be rusty pile of rubbish

with Stan
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 18/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 22/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
Brown 08/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
with James T
Hidden 06/Aug/09 AltLd O/S
AJM 02/Aug/09 AltLd O/S

Very atmospheric with a big feel to it. Committing feeling launching away from the peg on p2!

pete johnson 13/Sep/08 -
with Kevin Sales
Hidden 24/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
HIGHTOWER 19/Aug/08 2nd


with Andy Woolston, Dave Gleave
centurion05 19/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Al Evans ??/2008 -
Owain Llewelyn 06/Oct/07 Lead
with Sam B
frost ?/Sep/07 AltLd
with N Griffiths
middlevern ?/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
with Mike Blood
pauldrew 09/Sep/06 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 09/Sep/06 -
Hidden 27/Aug/06 AltLd O/S
Will1 ?/Jun/06 -
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 AltLd O/S
jgordon75 ??/2006 AltLd O/S

Date approx

with Luke Foulger
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
david morse ?/Sep/05 AltLd
with chris todd
geoff b 04/Aug/05 AltLd

First time on Red Walls & it was quite gripping. We went to do Fantasia afterwards but I wimped out at the move rightwards on to the red wall. Ended up doing Red Wall twice!

Hidden 04/Aug/05 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/05 AltLd
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/05 AltLd
with Simon Frost
datoon 26/Sep/04 AltLd O/S


with RT
haydng ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Rob
Hidden 27/Aug/01 Lead O/S
Ian Jones ??/2001 Lead rpt

Still crap. Not E3 though is it?

with Karen Ghiselli
tuftynick ??/2001 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1998 2nd O/S
pete johnson 27/Sep/97 AltLd O/S
with Dave Wills
sadams 27/Sep/97 AltLd
with Hugh Cottom
PaulTanton ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S
with Dave Taylor
Hidden 29/Aug/96 AltLd
Budge ?/Nov/95 AltLd O/S
michael burrows 13/Aug/95 AltLd O/S
with steve ward
Pete Nugent ?/Aug/95 AltLd

Led p.2. Had an excellent week at Gogarth. Originally, was heading for Alps but turned the car round onthe M6 and headed for Scotland as there had been a drought for months. Started to rain after a week so headed down to Wales.

with John Bennison
Steve Crowe 31/Oct/93 Lead O/S


with KM
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1993 2nd
Ched 11/Oct/92 Lead O/S

Route finding on P1 not obvious.

with Glanfor
Hidden 19/Sep/92 Lead
Roget 14/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with jon
whispering nic 03/Sep/91 AltLd
with Graham Iles
Seymore Butt ??/1990 AltLd
with Spuz
Hidden ??/1990 -
johno072 ??/1989 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/88 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
steveboote ??/1986 AltLd

With Phil Sampson...never again

keefe ??/1986 -
charlesmfrench 27/Oct/85 AltLd O/S


with Dave Booth
andy gittins ??/1985 -
Dave Musgrove 25/Aug/84 AltLd
Martin Bennett 18/Aug/82 -
with JD
Hidden 07/Nov/81 AltLd
barny ??/1981 AltLd O/S

Err. Exciting, I think that's the word. Epic on dusty/scary rock but what a position!

with Pete Sutton
jon ??/1980 -
Ian Jones ?/Aug/79 2nd O/S

Tried to lead the crux pitch but didn't like it. neither did Dave but he led it anyway. ***? No chance.

with Dave Greenald
granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Bolt Phobia 11/Nov/75 2nd

In the rain.

with Dave Williams
mikej 14/Sep/69 AltLd

Had a grandstand view of Tony Wilmott leading the first scent of Black Light. He was a NLMC associate of Bill's and had borrowed our abseil rope which should have been left in situ to facilitate our escape if required.

with Bill Church
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 38
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Not Set