Restricted Access
The previous owner who had a history of violent altercations with climbers has passed away. The attitude of the current occupiers towards access for climbing is not known. If climbers are asked to leave or are challenged for being on the cliff please contact the BMC with details.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Seasonal restrictions apply across the whole crag.
45m.
An ideal climb for small people with a deep blue tan or a sea sick hung over belayer! Start from a non tidal ledge above the sea just right of Green light chimney. Gained by abseil from above off good spikes. SSS takes the white streak and brown wall right of Green Light.
Pitch 1. Pull off the ledge, with good gear, to climb a balancy steep slab following the white steak. Gain the first Ledge and good spike. Pull through the undercut budge to gain good jugs and a better second ledge. Good belay.
Pitch 2 Climb slighty left and up on nice red rock to reach a thin move and a pull up steep rock to finish.
Pitch 1. Pull off the ledge, with good gear, to climb a balancy steep slab following the white steak. Gain the first Ledge and good spike. Pull through the undercut budge to gain good jugs and a better second ledge. Good belay.
Pitch 2 Climb slighty left and up on nice red rock to reach a thin move and a pull up steep rock to finish.
M.Turner, D, Lampard 09/Aug/2014.
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Route of Interest
Main Wall
Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)