UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A classy, sustained pitch in an idyllic setting. The route follows the sheer-looking, blank wall to the right of the picturesque waterfall. Start on boulders in the stream at the base of the line.
32m. Climb the line of thin cracks to small ledges and continue past a peg to another small ledge midway up the wall. The upper section of the crack gradually steepens but the holds get bigger and better. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climb the crack to small grassy ledge, ticky moves past poor peg, follow sustained diangnal crack to the top.
Still needs a extra stake, there is a new one up high that's good, but the one in the hollow is only a foot long, be warned.

Ticklists

Best slab climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Culm - When the tide's in., Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Culm Along

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tall Oak 26 Jul Show βeta
βeta: Wonderful climbing. Truly wonderful. We even had cows at the top (though none seemed willing to act as an weight for a belay). As of 25th May the pitons are rusty and if anything more of a hazard then anything else. Goes with the grain that to the right and below of where you are climbing there are loads of spikes (piton) which said climber should be wary of. There were three spikes we used as an anchor system. Two relatively close together and near the foothill before the gradient ramps up, and another quite far back, behind a wee mound. Again what a wonderful climb. Highly rated. And even four days later (whilst writing) I am still stoked to have bagged this. Though it was a fight, a worthy fight.
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful climbing. Truly wonderful. We even had cows at the top (though none seemed willing to act as an weight for a belay). As of 25th May the pitons are rusty and if anything more of a hazard then anything else. Goes with the grain that to the right and below of where you are climbing there are loads of spikes (piton) which said climber should be wary of. There were three spikes we used as an anchor system. Two relatively close together and near the foothill before the gradient ramps up, and another quite far back, behind a wee mound. Again what a wonderful climb. Highly rated. And even four days later (whilst writing) I am still stoked to have bagged this. Though it was a fight, a worthy fight.
JamieH 9 May Show βeta
βeta: Ab’ed to inspect the pegs before leading May 2021. Tiny gear either side of the remains of the first peg, good alternatives below the useable stump of the second peg. A fantastic Pete O’Sullivan route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ab’ed to inspect the pegs before leading May 2021. Tiny gear either side of the remains of the first peg, good alternatives below the useable stump of the second peg. A fantastic Pete O’Sullivan route.
climbercool 1 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it.

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High E4
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Black Ice

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Long Quarry Point)
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