Rockfax Description
A classy, sustained pitch in an idyllic setting. The route follows the sheer-looking, blank wall to the right of the picturesque waterfall. The route original had a couple of pegs for protection. These are now almost gone but other gear is available. Start on boulders in the stream. Climb the line of thin cracks to small ledges and continue past an old peg to another small ledge midway up the wall. The upper section of the crack gradually steepens but the holds get bigger and better. Belay on a variety of stakes that need a bit of searching out if the grass is long. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Climb the crack to small grassy ledge, ticky moves past poor peg, follow sustained diangnal crack to the top.
Still needs a extra stake, there is a new one up high that's good, but the one in the hollow is only a foot long, be warned.
Best slab climbs of the UK , West Country Climbs , Culm - When the tide's in. , Ultimate E3 ticklist , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis , The (S)Hitlist , routes to finish before graduation from Exeter university , Toms Top E3/E4/E5's of the South West
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Trickyw | 20 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: Lower half rock quality and gear questionable. Steady climbing, seems that some grease will always be there from the spray from the waterfall. There was a micro in-situ between lower and midway breaks with option to use own micro. Not convinced with any of the lower gear in that rock. Crux is definitely moving off the second break past the sharp stump of a peg, but you do have one really good bit of gear then, just don't kick it out. Thereafter the rock and gear is excellent and the climbing a sustained joyous relief after the choss of the lower half:-)! Exiting left near the top is the natural route. As mentioned before, continuing the crack seems a tad contrived, but if you fancy more mileage/pump, then why not? This is E3 if a route was ever E3. Down grading to E2 is not responsible. Down grading 3stars to 2...I wouldn't argue given that rock quality, but memorable either way. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Lower half rock quality and gear questionable. Steady climbing, seems that some grease will always be there from the spray from the waterfall. There was a micro in-situ between lower and midway breaks with option to use own micro. Not convinced with any of the lower gear in that rock. Crux is definitely moving off the second break past the sharp stump of a peg, but you do have one really good bit of gear then, just don't kick it out. Thereafter the rock and gear is excellent and the climbing a sustained joyous relief after the choss of the lower half:-)! Exiting left near the top is the natural route. As mentioned before, continuing the crack seems a tad contrived, but if you fancy more mileage/pump, then why not? This is E3 if a route was ever E3. Down grading to E2 is not responsible. Down grading 3stars to 2...I wouldn't argue given that rock quality, but memorable either way. |
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Alwaysinjured | 12 Aug, 2024 |
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βeta: No specific crux as such, just a lot of fairly hard moves on tiny footholds. Had one hand-hold flake explode on me. Greasy lower half before sun came round added to the difficulties. 3*? Maybe, but I'm in no hurry to go back and repeat the experience | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: No specific crux as such, just a lot of fairly hard moves on tiny footholds. Had one hand-hold flake explode on me. Greasy lower half before sun came round added to the difficulties. 3*? Maybe, but I'm in no hurry to go back and repeat the experience |
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Tall Oak | 26 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Wonderful climbing. Truly wonderful. We even had cows at the top (though none seemed willing to act as an weight for a belay). As of 25th May the pitons are rusty and if anything more of a hazard then anything else. Goes with the grain that to the right and below of where you are climbing there are loads of spikes (piton) which said climber should be wary of. There were three spikes we used as an anchor system. Two relatively close together and near the foothill before the gradient ramps up, and another quite far back, behind a wee mound. Again what a wonderful climb. Highly rated. And even four days later (whilst writing) I am still stoked to have bagged this. Though it was a fight, a worthy fight. | ||
Show beta
βeta: Wonderful climbing. Truly wonderful. We even had cows at the top (though none seemed willing to act as an weight for a belay). As of 25th May the pitons are rusty and if anything more of a hazard then anything else. Goes with the grain that to the right and below of where you are climbing there are loads of spikes (piton) which said climber should be wary of. There were three spikes we used as an anchor system. Two relatively close together and near the foothill before the gradient ramps up, and another quite far back, behind a wee mound. Again what a wonderful climb. Highly rated. And even four days later (whilst writing) I am still stoked to have bagged this. Though it was a fight, a worthy fight. |
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JamieH | 9 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Ab’ed to inspect the pegs before leading May 2021. Tiny gear either side of the remains of the first peg, good alternatives below the useable stump of the second peg. A fantastic Pete O’Sullivan route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Ab’ed to inspect the pegs before leading May 2021. Tiny gear either side of the remains of the first peg, good alternatives below the useable stump of the second peg. A fantastic Pete O’Sullivan route. |
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climbercool | 1 May, 2019 |
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βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: top roped this today because i was too scared to lead it, the rock was terrible, i was pulling out loose rock from start to finish, felt like i couldn't trust anything. Glad i didn't lead it. |
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Grade: E3 6a ***
(Lundy)