UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A great route up the centre of the square buttress to the left (looking in) of the abseil line. Start in the centre of the buttress, below a left-leaning ramp. Climb the ramp to a good flake on the arete - lace this with gear, then make a tricky traverse back right to a hard move past an old peg. Finish strenuously right or left. © Rockfax

FA. J. de Montjoye, I.Parsons, B.Hannon 17/Jul/1982.

Ticklists

Cianchi's Hit List

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User Date Notes
dinodinosaur 6 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Peg is so grim now I didn't even bother with it. As said before there is good gear that backs up the peg
βeta?
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βeta: Peg is so grim now I didn't even bother with it. As said before there is good gear that backs up the peg
John Alcock 16 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: The peg is quite old now, but there are perfect wires to back it up.
βeta?
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βeta: The peg is quite old now, but there are perfect wires to back it up.
Alun 10 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with the above comment. The first 2/3rds are pleasant enough but straightforward. The last section is sustained 5c in a superb position.
βeta?
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βeta: Agree with the above comment. The first 2/3rds are pleasant enough but straightforward. The last section is sustained 5c in a superb position.
Chad123 25 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent moves across thin wall and up to top. Would get three stars if bottom wall was not so straightforward!
βeta?
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βeta: Excellent moves across thin wall and up to top. Would get three stars if bottom wall was not so straightforward!

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 51
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 50
Votes cast 45
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Swordfish

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Stackpole Head)

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