UKC

36m.

Rockfax Description
The route up the wall right of Deranged has a steep start with a wicked move. Start 4m right of Deranged. Pull up the wall on huge holds until they run out then make a hard move to a ledge. Move up then swing right onto a slabby groove which leads more easily to a break below the overhanging headwall. Finger traverse right to the arete, then move back left to a large hold above. Finish direct. © Rockfax

FA. B.Berzins, C.Sowden 22/Aug/1981.

Feedback

User Date Notes
W d c 28 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Big jugs to below cracks. Difficult moves to ledge with good gear ( small friends ) at feet. Good holds traverse into blind climbing up the groove.
Show beta
βeta: Big jugs to below cracks. Difficult moves to ledge with good gear ( small friends ) at feet. Good holds traverse into blind climbing up the groove.
Steve Crowe 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I tried a cunning sequence slightly right and fell off! returned to some more straight forward crimping and sidepulls slightly left and that worked just fine. Suggest that you remove "Make a baffling move upwards" it pursuaded me to try something bizzare instead of the obvious!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I tried a cunning sequence slightly right and fell off! returned to some more straight forward crimping and sidepulls slightly left and that worked just fine. Suggest that you remove "Make a baffling move upwards" it pursuaded me to try something bizzare instead of the obvious!

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Repeated
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Route of Interest

Tasmanian Devil

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Greenham Common)
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