Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax
FA. B.Berzins, C.Sowden 22/Aug/1981.
Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Trad climbs for sport climbers , 100 best limestone climbs in Britain , Caff's 100 Ace E5s , Ultimate E5 ticklist , A lifetimes worth of inspiration , Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20 , The Best of Pembroke , Stanners lifetime Onsight attempt list , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , 30 For My 30s , Pembroke dreams
User | Date | Notes | ||
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John Alcock | 26 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers. |
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Grade: E5 6a ***
(Stennis Head)