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30m.

Rockfax Description
Sustained and well protected climbing and, like all good cruxes, it's at the top! Start at the same point as Raw Recruits. Climb to the right-hand side of a roof and break rightwards up the crack which is followed with increasing difficulty to a big flat hold. The next bit is best climbed as quickly as possible without thinking too much about your gear. Finish up a short groove above. © Rockfax

FA. B.Berzins, C.Sowden 22/Aug/1981.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Trad climbs for sport climbers, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Ultimate E5 ticklist, A lifetimes worth of inspiration, Bill's 2016 Sweepstake 20, The Best of Pembroke, Stanners lifetime Onsight list (because what else is there to do?), Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, 30 For My 30s

Feedback

User Date Notes
John Alcock 26 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. A doddle to top rope (French 6c?), but very pumpy to place the gear on lead. I rationed myself to wires every 10/12 feet, when you could quite easily aid the whole route. There's barely a move more than 5c, but it goes on an on. When I on-sighted it years ago, I lay down when I got to the resting ledge and de-pumped for 20 minutes before topping out, ignoring the bored jeers of the onlookers.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 40
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 38
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Out of My Mind

Grade: E5 6a ***
(Stennis Head)