UKC

42m.

Rockfax Description
An excellent and popular route which follows the main line of the wall. The climbing in the groove is superb and very pumpy. The upper wall is much easier but has some loose rock so make sure you get some good gear in. Start beneath the weakness in the lower wall. Climb up to the flake/crack and follow good holds up its left-hand side. From the top of the pedestal move up into the groove and follow it leftwards. At a small bulge pull back right onto the upper wall. Follow this to the top. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 21/Jul/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Best of Pembroke, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5, 2020/21 Goals

Feedback

User Date Notes
a_radiohead_fan 16 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
βeta?
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βeta: mega 40 footer from the roof. landed even with the top of the wall. 3!!!! bits of gear ripped on the way down. 1 was a cam in the roof. very unsettling. was a particuarly greasy day and i just slipped off. wont be getting back on it in a hurry.
kevin stephens 18 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top
 
Show beta
βeta: Don't forget to extend gear under the roof! Big nut just after pulling round then unprotected 4C to the top
Jus 19 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
βeta?
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βeta: There's like only one wire once you leave the groove, that's where there's little gear! Pumpy as all hell in the groove.
John Alcock 25 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
βeta?
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βeta: Who says all Pembroke E3s are soft for the grade? Well-protected, no hard moves, but pretty pumpy.
Ged Desforges 20 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.
βeta?
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βeta: bloody brilliant. sustained and well protected. dont know where the line about poor gear above the break-there's plenty, and its easy climbing by then. the very first moves off the floor (before the big ledge) are bloody desperate-easy british 7c.

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 82
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Fickle Heart

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Raming Hole Area)
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