UKC

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ROCK FALL JANUARY 2018

To the left of Stackpole Grooves. the Routes Sea Eagle to Shy Talk City have gone as well as the top pitch of The Hawk.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction covers the W Face, S Face (inc. Stackpole Point, Cracks Wall, Leaning Tower and Promontory), E Face (inc. Main Face and White Pillar) and from The Gilt Edge/Mussel Up to Poisoned Love and is normally marked by red cliff top markers.

 

 

42m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This superb piece of climbing tackles the centre of the burnt-orange wall, found under the huge upper roof stack.
1) 6c, 32m. Climb brown scoops to tiny ledges beneath a smooth wall, then move right and ascend twin cracks to a break. Tackle the bulge above, move left to the main crackline, and climb this to better holds in a break; move up and right to a nut/thread belay below the roofs.
2) 6b, 10m. Traverse rightwards, and crank through the roofs above to gain the groove left of Puritan. Follow this more easily to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M.Crocker, M.Ward 30/Aug/1987.

Ticklists

100 or so good E6s - aye Caff , The Best of Pembroke

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Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Stennis the Menace

Grade: E6 6b ***
(Stennis Head)

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