A massive trip across some wild rock formations which is guaranteed to get the blood pumping and the heart racing. Allow plenty of time and make sure you are a competent well-balanced team since escape after the tide has come in is tricky.
1) 5b, 15m. Climb Swordfish and belay at the base of its groove.
2) 5c, 25m. Climb up to the break then follow it leftwards to a ledge just right of Heaven's Door.
3) 5a, 20m. Step down then pull around the arete. Follow the break to the ledge of Neptune.
4) 5b, 25m. Reverse down the groove of Neptune to gain the juggy band, then traverse left to the slot stance on The Whaler.
5) 5b, 30m. Follow The Whaler but continue left along the upper break to a hanging belay on the arete.
6) 5b, 15m. Traverse the slab using a horizontal crack, then pull up into a groove which leads to the top. © Rockfax
FA. (Pitches 1-4) P.Littlejohn, S.Lewis 13.1.1980. FA. (Pitches 5-6) P.Littlejohn, C.Pound 24.9.1980.
101Pembroke Extremes , Ultimate E3 ticklist , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme Girdle , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock 2020 , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Pembroke Hard/Extreme Rock , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces
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