UKC

39m.

Rockfax Description
If Swordfish is one of the best E3s in Pembroke then this is one of the best E2s. It covers some incredible ground at a relatively amenable grade but needs a competent and well-balance team. Best done in two pitches to increase communication and avoid rope drag and tide problems.
1) 5b, 22m. Climb the corner to the roof, as for Swordfish. Traverse right along the breaks then move up to another roof. Traverse back left to a small ledge beneath two cracks.
2) 5b, 20m. Climb the cracks then trend right into the corner and follow it to a break. Bridge up here with difficulty then swing right to escape. Some climb the steep hand-crack at the top to avoid the corner - no change in grade. © Rockfax

FA. P.Littlejohn, C.King 02/May/1978.

Ticklists

Pembroke Rockfax Top 50 , Ultimate E2 ticklist , 101Pembroke Extremes , The Best of Pembroke , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Extreme 2018 , E is for Easy... Right? , Pemroke, 3 Star Routes, E1-E5 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Pembs '21 , Pembroke ticket

Feedback

User Date Notes
GrahamD 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done at Pembroke with a relatively remote feel.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done at Pembroke with a relatively remote feel.
Mark Stevenson 8 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Excellent route threading a reasonable line through amazing territory. Absobing and steady climbing. Superb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Excellent route threading a reasonable line through amazing territory. Absobing and steady climbing. Superb.

Logged Ascents

138 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stackpole Head

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 74 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 27
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 26
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Preposterous Tales

Grade: E2 5b ***
(Bosherston Head)

Loading Notifications...