UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 
20m.

Rockfax Description
Start as for Wipe Out, but continue carefully in the same line up the hairline crack to a creaky finish on the headwall. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson, Dave Williams 1979.

Feedback

User Date Notes
smudge 25 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned May 2023, in really good nick. RP placements cleaned out, well protected with micro wires. Very nice line, two and a half stars.
βeta?
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βeta: Cleaned May 2023, in really good nick. RP placements cleaned out, well protected with micro wires. Very nice line, two and a half stars.
Fiend 10 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Mild for the grade if you're stacked up with RPs, Peenuts, Offsets, Swedges etc etc - the gear is there and although small is usually good. A really good route that is like a little slice of the Culm coast in the Peaks, with the delightful delicacies that entails. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the lesser start and finish.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Mild for the grade if you're stacked up with RPs, Peenuts, Offsets, Swedges etc etc - the gear is there and although small is usually good. A really good route that is like a little slice of the Culm coast in the Peaks, with the delightful delicacies that entails. Only misses out on 3 stars due to the lesser start and finish.
Frank the Husky 25 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Soft rock? This is Staden, not Red Walls! The route can be laced with great RPs in which case...steady away!
Show beta
βeta: Soft rock? This is Staden, not Red Walls! The route can be laced with great RPs in which case...steady away!
Katya 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Well Protected by Bombproof RP's
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Well Protected by Bombproof RP's

Logged Ascents

135 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 12 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 43
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 44
Votes cast 42
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Mad Dogs and Englishmen

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Chee Dale Upper)

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