UKC

Restricted Access

The landowner of Staden has recently changed and the new landower's attitude to climbing is unknown. If visiting Staden to climb please continue to keep your impact low - park sensibly, remove litter, keep noise to a minimum - and demonstrate to the new landowner that responsible access will have no impact on their activities or local residents. Local residents have expressed support for continued climber access.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 21 May to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

Kestrels have been reported nesting at the left hand end of Joint Effort wall. Please avoid the leftmost routes here (Wooden Leg, Xenophobia, Suspiciat) to avoid disturbing them. There are no signs up yet (as of 21/5/22) so there may be people at the crag unaware - please pass on the message if possible. 
24m.

Rockfax Description
The left edge of the wall has a steep start. Climb fluted rock then step left to the arete. Move back right (loose) and follow the long crack on the right to a short grass bank. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn,W Ward, John Smith (started round to the left) 1966.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Stanley 20 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Great fun, only a lack of gear for first few meters.
Show beta
βeta: Great fun, only a lack of gear for first few meters.
FallingBrick 16 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: This is not bold as the RockFax book suggests. Just the first 4m. Plenty of good gear above this. Hexes good but not essential. Tree belay at top so a couple of slings good to protect the bark.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is not bold as the RockFax book suggests. Just the first 4m. Plenty of good gear above this. Hexes good but not essential. Tree belay at top so a couple of slings good to protect the bark.
gw3285 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: 1/5/22 - a Kestrel is nesting in the crack about 3/4 of the way up this route
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 1/5/22 - a Kestrel is nesting in the crack about 3/4 of the way up this route
ABark 8 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, good moves, interesting positions. Get it done!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great route, good moves, interesting positions. Get it done!
Albie 17 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A hard start as I remember, but the upper section has sufficent hand-holds and gear placement.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: A hard start as I remember, but the upper section has sufficent hand-holds and gear placement.

Logged Ascents

821 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Staden Quarry

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 95
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 92
Votes cast 93
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Martello Buttress

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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