Rockfax Description
Not as hard as the name might suggest. Climb past the ancient ironwork and on up the pleasant crack to the base of a shallow groove. Balance up this using holds on the left arete and some neat footwork - poor gear. A cop-out finish can be made up Soft Times at HVS 5b. © Rockfax
FA. Paul Nunn, R.Olliphant (1 pt) 1969.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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mattdarli92 | 21 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how | ||
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βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how |
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Rob M | 4 Jun, 2023 |
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βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked. | βeta? | |
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βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked. |
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OlieWhiting | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X. |
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HannahParky | 14 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs | ||
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βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs |
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Glen | 1 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think! | βeta? | |
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βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think! |
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Swig | 9 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up. |
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John2 | 5 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS. |
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Souljah | 17 Aug, 2005 |
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βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1? | βeta? | |
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βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1? |
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GrahamD | 6 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route. |
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John2 | 19 Jun, 2005 |
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βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved. |
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chris sm | 24 Oct, 2003 |
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βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS. | βeta? | |
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βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS. |
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Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)