UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Not as hard as the name might suggest. Climb past the ancient ironwork and on up the pleasant crack to the base of a shallow groove. Balance up this using holds on the left arete and some neat footwork - poor gear. A cop-out finish can be made up Soft Times at HVS 5b. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Nunn, R.Olliphant (1 pt) 1969.

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User Date Notes
mattdarli92 21 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how
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βeta: Found good gear in the groove and easier when you know how
Rob M 4 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked.
βeta?
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βeta: It's E1. If you only use the peg just below the groove & the no'5 'ish wire at the bottom of the groove... E1 & no comfy push over like BRM. The moves are low end 5b BUT 5b none the less & the gear must've been +2.5m away at the very delicate crux section. The bottom of the route is all VS/ HVS depending on your reach & how many wires you place. A lovely line! Two loose blocks when I did it but they're well marked.
OlieWhiting 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X.
βeta?
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βeta: There are two loose blocks mid way up and near the top, marked with a white X.
HannahParky 14 Aug, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs
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βeta: Fun day with olie and ffion - very cute crag dogs
Glen 1 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think!
βeta?
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βeta: I thought slightly easier than Bicycle Repair Man, but I think the top groove still warrants E1 (which is the grade give in On Peak Rock). Th number of pegs in the groove seems to vary - a long but relatively safe fall would be in the offing with none. P.S. Also better than BRM I think!
Swig 9 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up.
βeta?
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βeta: There are two pegs in the groove and at least one can be backed up.
John2 5 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: I climbed this one again at the weekend. I must have been having a bad day when I made my previous comment. Top end HVS.
Souljah 17 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1?
βeta?
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βeta: A very nice climb, some lovely crimps and delicate smears needed to get up the groove. A good E1?
GrahamD 6 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route.
βeta?
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βeta: Especially with the peg in place, I didn't think the top groove was too bad. Certainly not worth E1 IMO. Good route.
John2 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved.
βeta?
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βeta: Great route, but the top groove definitely puts it up to E1 in my opinion. Without the peg in place I think E2 would be deserved.
chris sm 24 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: The groove at the top felt a bit too tenuous for HVS.

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 71
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 140
Votes cast 131
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Millsom's Minion

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Stanage Plantation)

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