UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

14m.

Rockfax Description
The roof right of Quietus taken in its centre then move right to the arete of Quietus Right-hand. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Straight through the main roof right of Quietus, and left of Quietus Right-hand. Place the starting runners as per Quietus Right-hand. Start under the roof and launch out on the excellent and obvious horizontal slots to a vertical pod (good cam) beneath the main break (good cams). Move right to finish as Quietus Right-hand. ACG Roofing was the company belonging to a friend, Adrian Cooper (Martin Cooper's brother). Adrian was a good friend and a climber. He once fell from Flying Buttress Direct (solo) on the way home to Sheffield from a party in Hathersage, he woke up some days later in Intensive Care minus his spleen and no recollection of what happened or how he got there. He lived for many years after this event, but sadly died of cancer. His wife, Wendy, suggested the route name after I told her I'd like to dedicate the route to his memory. The route is at least as good & as memorable as Quietus Right-hand.

FA. Martin Veale/Martin Cooper &/or Andy Cave.

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Route of Interest
Reticent Mass Murderer

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Cratcliffe Tor)

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