UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
The left-hand of the continuous cracks. Climb the thin lower section to good jams in the deeper upper section, then up this awkwardly to the top. Tricky but well protected. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

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User Date Notes
Call ._ d 24 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Perma nut stuck at last crux, good luck to anyone trying to free it (you won't)
βeta?
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βeta: Perma nut stuck at last crux, good luck to anyone trying to free it (you won't)
Fraser kid 22 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Green and dirty
βeta?
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βeta: Green and dirty
GrahamD 1 Nov, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Like its neighbour, this is strangely awkward and the gear, though brilliant, never seems easy to place - certainly not just a 'grab and pull' climb. Nice little route.
βeta?
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βeta: Like its neighbour, this is strangely awkward and the gear, though brilliant, never seems easy to place - certainly not just a 'grab and pull' climb. Nice little route.
catt 27 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: i think i'd agree with there being a 5a move in there to reach the deeper crack. but what a nice move!
βeta?
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βeta: i think i'd agree with there being a 5a move in there to reach the deeper crack. but what a nice move!
Wilbur 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Hard start - possibly 5a?
βeta?
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βeta: Hard start - possibly 5a?

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 126
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 122
Votes cast 102
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Pearly Gates

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Stoney Middleton)

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