There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The left-hand of the continuous cracks. Climb the thin lower section to good jams in the deeper upper section, then up this awkwardly to the top. Tricky but well protected. © Rockfax
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage 100 VD - VS , Stanage VS Challenge (1989 Guide) , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit TOP 500: S and VS , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Call ._ d | 24 Jun, 2020 |
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βeta: Perma nut stuck at last crux, good luck to anyone trying to free it (you won't) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Perma nut stuck at last crux, good luck to anyone trying to free it (you won't) |
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Fraser kid | 22 Aug, 2019 |
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βeta: Green and dirty | βeta? | |
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βeta: Green and dirty |
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GrahamD | 1 Nov, 2006 |
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βeta: Like its neighbour, this is strangely awkward and the gear, though brilliant, never seems easy to place - certainly not just a 'grab and pull' climb. Nice little route. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Like its neighbour, this is strangely awkward and the gear, though brilliant, never seems easy to place - certainly not just a 'grab and pull' climb. Nice little route. |
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catt | 27 Jun, 2006 |
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βeta: i think i'd agree with there being a 5a move in there to reach the deeper crack. but what a nice move! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: i think i'd agree with there being a 5a move in there to reach the deeper crack. but what a nice move! |
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Wilbur | 26 Jun, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Hard start - possibly 5a? | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Hard start - possibly 5a? |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Bamford Edge)