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14m.

Rockfax Description
Follow Cave Buttress to the roof then attack the short-lived hanging jamming crack. A lot harder for wall-bred climbers! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1958.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Eastern Grit Jamming, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Brown & Whillans Stanage, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District, Jem's Time in the Peaks

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User Date Notes
Alexander_Metcalfe 10 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
βeta?
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βeta: Lace that roof with gear before you go for it. Easy to burn out trying to pull through the overhang
Pythonist 10 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
βeta?
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βeta: Done this now three times, and I believe there are two finishes at two different grades: 1) Jam, heel up right into pod, rock rightwards. Body position moves right around nose. 2* HVS 5b 2) Jam, reach up, jam again, knee/foot/grovel on ledge (possibly with foot jam under roof). Body position continues straigh over nose, with much grunting. 1* E1 5b
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Arrggghhhh this is a HVS 5b, one of the many ridiculously hard gritstone HVS 5b routes. All the ones I can think of (Roof Route, The Vice, etc.) are safe and possible for an HVS leader, providing they're willing to part with the blood, sweat and tears.
Alex Mason 11 Oct, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
βeta?
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βeta: "Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick" ive never done up side down jamming before and i found it quite nice as my first E1 just tiring!!
Paz 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where exactly does the line go? Up the crack! (sorry Nick someone had to say it). Bunched up high rock over on to a smear for me enabled further progress up the crack. Where as Roof Route has a foot hold. Hint for both is to initially torque your trailing foot crack and shove upwards off of it.
MeMeMe 27 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
βeta?
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βeta: Couldn't get any good jams above the lip, felt really awkward. Made desperate use of small edges and slopey bits to the left of the crack, got knee hook on nose and then more desperate lunging and pinching of holds until I flopped over the top. I thought my jamming was improving but there is obviously some way to go!
Garan 2 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
βeta?
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βeta: Solid jams, bomber gear, thrutchy and power draining. Probably E1. Easier than Roof Route (Rivelin), sorry Paz.
Nick Smith - Climbers 9 Jun, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: So where exactly does the line go at the top? From a couple of good hand jams in the roof crack, I couldn't find any way of going direct up the continuation of the crack, so ended up out right on good holds in the horizontal breaks.
laaljohn 21 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good fun thrutch at the end. Well protected and HVS 5b in my book.
Paz 30 Sep, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Let's be frank, climbers who aren't even a little bit proficient in upside down jamming aren't going to go near this with a stick so why can't those of us who like this type of thing have it at HVS? A gem. Harder than roof route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 137
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 132
Votes cast 115
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Valkyrie

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Froggatt Edge)