Restricted Access
There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.
Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite.
Access restrictions under CRoW sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.
2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th
These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 May to 30 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.
Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page.
These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.
Rockfax Description
The slabby face by a series of mild mantels. © Rockfax
FA. Fred Piggott et al. early 1920s.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage Starred VDiffs , Stanage 'Difficults'
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| troybison | 12 Aug, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Definitely wouldn't recommend as a first VD lead! Cheated crux using the corner on lead then repeated correctly on TR. Good technical climb, but hard to spot the easiest moves and the protection isn't great for a VD. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Definitely wouldn't recommend as a first VD lead! Cheated crux using the corner on lead then repeated correctly on TR. Good technical climb, but hard to spot the easiest moves and the protection isn't great for a VD. |
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| mountainremedy | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Upper mantel is tricky for shorties! | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Upper mantel is tricky for shorties! |
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| EllenHolmes | 5 May, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Absolutely not a VDiff! Naff all protection available all the way up and the mantels are nails if you are short. Novices beware! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Absolutely not a VDiff! Naff all protection available all the way up and the mantels are nails if you are short. Novices beware! |
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| Iain Thow | 4 Apr, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: This and It's a Cracker are the same route in my book, both perhaps HVD | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This and It's a Cracker are the same route in my book, both perhaps HVD |
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| Mutl3y | 30 Jun, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Not sure which of the routes on this face I did, but certainly remember 'mantleshelfing' a fair old bit. Thought it was a bit stiff at the grade, but it was blinkin' hot and full of midges. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure which of the routes on this face I did, but certainly remember 'mantleshelfing' a fair old bit. Thought it was a bit stiff at the grade, but it was blinkin' hot and full of midges. |
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| Si dH | 9 Jun, 2004 |
Show βeta
βeta: Nice warm-up at the start of the day, worth a star. Although having said that, I only found out there were three routes up the slab after I'd done it, so I may have done a combination of this and the thing to its left. Although I did use one big mantelshelf, just for the name. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Nice warm-up at the start of the day, worth a star. Although having said that, I only found out there were three routes up the slab after I'd done it, so I may have done a combination of this and the thing to its left. Although I did use one big mantelshelf, just for the name. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage North
Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks
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Hollybush Crack
Grade: VD ***
(Stanage Popular)