UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
The right arete is hardest at the bulge. Avoiding the boulder in the chimney is tricky, using it is more like VS 4c. Be aware of a loose block near the top. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
joemallia 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: The loose block near the top of this climb looks dangerous to me - very big, not attached to anything and sloping outwards. It's an obvious hold, just where you'd like one, but it's not so obviously loose until after you've used it. Potentially terminal for your second if you pull it out!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The loose block near the top of this climb looks dangerous to me - very big, not attached to anything and sloping outwards. It's an obvious hold, just where you'd like one, but it's not so obviously loose until after you've used it. Potentially terminal for your second if you pull it out!

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 15
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gangue Grooves

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)

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