UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof. Intimidating but not too bad. © Rockfax

FFA. Alan Clarke 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
RM199 17 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: The top overhang doesn’t inspire confidence. A very large block sat on an iffy flake. Be careful!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The top overhang doesn’t inspire confidence. A very large block sat on an iffy flake. Be careful!
gooose 2 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I defy anyone to get over the roof with style. My undignified grovelling won me no technique awards. Probably VS as the gear is right above you - but there are many, many easier HVS's.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I defy anyone to get over the roof with style. My undignified grovelling won me no technique awards. Probably VS as the gear is right above you - but there are many, many easier HVS's.
r0b 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Can't see why people think this is HVS. Sure, two 5a sections but both short, the first low down and the second well protected. VS 5a seems spot on to me.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can't see why people think this is HVS. Sure, two 5a sections but both short, the first low down and the second well protected. VS 5a seems spot on to me.
Horse 12 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The definitive guide is nearer the mark at HVS 5a although the top crux might deserve 5b, agree worth a least one star.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: The definitive guide is nearer the mark at HVS 5a although the top crux might deserve 5b, agree worth a least one star.
Monk 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth HVS 5a. Good route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Definitely worth HVS 5a. Good route.
Nick Smith - Climbers 5 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, with 2 separate cruxes. Possibly deserves HVS 5a and TWO stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, with 2 separate cruxes. Possibly deserves HVS 5a and TWO stars!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 136
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 131
Votes cast 114
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Congo Corner

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)

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