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10m.

Rockfax Description
Climb the buttress, passing an overhang early on, to an awkward leftwards exit under the final roof. Intimidating but not too bad. © Rockfax

FFA. Alan Clarke 1964.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS), The Gritlist, Stanage HVS Challenge

Feedback

User Date Notes
gooose 2 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I defy anyone to get over the roof with style. My undignified grovelling won me no technique awards. Probably VS as the gear is right above you - but there are many, many easier HVS's.
βeta?
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βeta: I defy anyone to get over the roof with style. My undignified grovelling won me no technique awards. Probably VS as the gear is right above you - but there are many, many easier HVS's.
r0b 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Can't see why people think this is HVS. Sure, two 5a sections but both short, the first low down and the second well protected. VS 5a seems spot on to me.
βeta?
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βeta: Can't see why people think this is HVS. Sure, two 5a sections but both short, the first low down and the second well protected. VS 5a seems spot on to me.
Horse 12 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: The definitive guide is nearer the mark at HVS 5a although the top crux might deserve 5b, agree worth a least one star.
βeta?
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βeta: The definitive guide is nearer the mark at HVS 5a although the top crux might deserve 5b, agree worth a least one star.
Monk 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely worth HVS 5a. Good route.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely worth HVS 5a. Good route.
Nick Smith - Climbers 5 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Superb route, with 2 separate cruxes. Possibly deserves HVS 5a and TWO stars!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb route, with 2 separate cruxes. Possibly deserves HVS 5a and TWO stars!

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 125
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 121
Votes cast 104
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Whillans' Pendulum/Black Magic

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Stanage Popular)