Rockfax Description
A fine and devious pitch - care with rope-work is required or you will get pulled up short. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall. © Rockfax
FA. Al Parker 1959.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
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| jimbonfire | 24 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward | βeta? | |
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βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward |
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| Swig | 15 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your". | βeta? | |
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βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your". |
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| Swig | 15 Jul, 2006 |
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βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half. | βeta? | |
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βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half. |
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| GrahamD | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ? | βeta? | |
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βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ? |
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| Andy Hobson | 31 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove. | βeta? | |
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βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove. |
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| MNA123 | 23 Jul, 2004 |
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βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well. | βeta? | |
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βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well. |
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| Neil Morbey | 25 May, 2004 |
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βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome! |
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| Stefan Kruger | 29 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse? | βeta? | |
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βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse? |
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| Vics | 8 Jul, 2003 |
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βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd. |
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| The Pylon King | 18 May, 2003 |
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βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice | βeta? | |
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βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice |
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Highlight
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(High Tor)