UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

22m.

Rockfax Description
A fine and devious pitch - care with rope-work is required or you will get pulled up short. Climb the chimney to an awkward traverse left under the roof. Gain the groove awkwardly and climb it to a step right. Pull over a bulge then trend left past the arete to the juggy north-facing wall. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage *** HVS's , Stanage 3 Star HVS's - Eastern Grit , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , Ultimate HVS ticklist , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , I’ve climbed a thousand VDiffs but I wanna be a HVS climber , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar , Essential grit ticks for the aspiring trad leader , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
jimbonfire 24 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Couple of tech moves 5a? Then rest is more straightforward
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sorry, that should read "you're" not "your".
Swig 15 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If your me you put some gear in and then remove it so you can make upward progress. The rope drag was a nightmare. The best bits of the route are in the lower half.
GrahamD 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
βeta?
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βeta: A classic dilema ! do you stuff gear in the high slot in the groove or do you keep it free for your fingers ?
Andy Hobson 31 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
βeta?
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βeta: A good route; HVS 5b seems spot on. The traverse is ok once you commit and the move up into the groove requires a bit of thhought as well as good use of your feet. More awkward than hard. 2 stars as it's a bit too escapable higher up and seemed a bit scrappy after the groove.
MNA123 23 Jul, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
βeta?
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βeta: My first 5b lead and i found it quite overbearing especially as my gear fell out goin up the side of the overhang just after the traverse. The finally moves are good adrenaline pumpers as well.
Neil Morbey 25 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
βeta?
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βeta: Absoultely fantastic route! Definetly one for double ropes though! try and get a mate to run up the crag and take a photo of the finish from the left. Awsome!
Stefan Kruger 29 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
βeta?
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βeta: Found this very hard for the grade. Traverse is delicate, and the groove is scary and sketchy. Or perhaps I'm just a bit of a blouse?
Vics 8 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
βeta?
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βeta: Tried to be careful with my rope work but still felt like I was dragging a 10 ton truck up on 2nd.
The Pylon King 18 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice
βeta?
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βeta: bit over rated though traverse is nice

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 132
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 127
Votes cast 122
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Twisted Smile

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Kinder Northern Edges)

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