UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

8m.

Rockfax Description
A one-pull-wonder. Power through the centre of the roof of the cave using the jammed blocks gently. Ambling remains. © Rockfax

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , Stanage HS Challenge , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
SnakehipsSeeley 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The chockstone above the small starting roof has become loose. Might not have long left! (18/06/2023)
βeta?
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βeta: The chockstone above the small starting roof has become loose. Might not have long left! (18/06/2023)
migs493 18 Jun, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: The big block is moving slightly!
βeta?
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βeta: The big block is moving slightly!
jessieleong 7 Apr, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: If you’re 5’5 and got a negative ape index, this feels so hard! Hand jam is possible but need to move very dynamically and do a wild heel hook
βeta?
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βeta: If you’re 5’5 and got a negative ape index, this feels so hard! Hand jam is possible but need to move very dynamically and do a wild heel hook
GeorgiePorgie1 12 Oct, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Seen the comments. Anyone above 6 feet shouldn't comment on any climbs really. As nicknamed by Rockfax's description of a route (can't remember which one it was now), tall people = cheaters. LOL
βeta?
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βeta: Seen the comments. Anyone above 6 feet shouldn't comment on any climbs really. As nicknamed by Rockfax's description of a route (can't remember which one it was now), tall people = cheaters. LOL
Andy Hobson 3 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: In reply to Richard - 'fair at 4c...you just need the ability to lock off'. Please could you show me any other 4c moves where the ability to lock off is crucial? It's at least 5a if not 5b.
βeta?
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βeta: In reply to Richard - 'fair at 4c...you just need the ability to lock off'. Please could you show me any other 4c moves where the ability to lock off is crucial? It's at least 5a if not 5b.
The old James turnbull 19 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: agreed v3 is well to high, 4c 5a move but very high dependent. im 6'4 and soloed it quite easily, my friend, better climber but short, couldnt do it. just have a go!
βeta?
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βeta: agreed v3 is well to high, 4c 5a move but very high dependent. im 6'4 and soloed it quite easily, my friend, better climber but short, couldnt do it. just have a go!
LakesWinter 2 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: V3 is english 6a/5c. This is neither, good suggestion to have a bouldering grade coz it is a bouldering problem but closer to V0 or V1
βeta?
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βeta: V3 is english 6a/5c. This is neither, good suggestion to have a bouldering grade coz it is a bouldering problem but closer to V0 or V1
Richard 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Thought it was fair at 4c - not technically hard, you just need some flexibility and the ability to lock off. There's a good right-hand jam in the right crack which helps, too.
βeta?
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βeta: Thought it was fair at 4c - not technically hard, you just need some flexibility and the ability to lock off. There's a good right-hand jam in the right crack which helps, too.
Tyler 14 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Much harder than 4c!
βeta?
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βeta: Much harder than 4c!
Monk 27 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Definitely harder than 4c. Probably 5a/b.
βeta?
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βeta: Definitely harder than 4c. Probably 5a/b.
Nick Smith - Climbers 5 Apr, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Bit of a stiff pull - at least 5a in my book, but well protected, with much easier climbing above.
βeta?
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βeta: Bit of a stiff pull - at least 5a in my book, but well protected, with much easier climbing above.
Jon Greengrass 20 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Simply stand in the cave undercut the crack, take the jug at arms length ( i'm 6'1") do a 2 arm pull up, heel hook, one-arm lock of with your right and reach up to the second jug with the left. sorry but sounds like a V3? boulder problem to me
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Simply stand in the cave undercut the crack, take the jug at arms length ( i'm 6'1") do a 2 arm pull up, heel hook, one-arm lock of with your right and reach up to the second jug with the left. sorry but sounds like a V3? boulder problem to me

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 121
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 125
Votes cast 99
Style of Ascent
Lead
Soloed
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
P.M.C.1

Grade: HS 4a ***
(Curbar Edge)

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