UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

10m.

Rockfax Description
The leaning widening crack is climbed by strenuous jamming to a gruesome shelving exit where the crack flares. Gritstone brutality at its best, it can be a hideous affair, unless you are a proficient jammer with big leathery hands! © Rockfax

FA. Clive Rowland 1962. (Pete Crew according to some)..

Ticklists

BMC On-Peak Rock: Jamming tests , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles , 50 cracks to Squamish , Stanage for Crack Apprentices , WideBoyz Crack School , Top 50 Peak Cracks , Proper Cracks UK , Post-lockdown Peak jamming hoedown , Stanage Routes - Epic Crackathon , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Big trad grit list , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Eastern Grit Crack School - Part 2 , Peak District Gritstone: Graham Hoey's Best Routes for Moving on to E2 , Climber's Club Jamfest List Meet , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Hardest E1s on grit , Best Forgotten Art , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , Eastern Grit E1s , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 E1 , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook , UKC Guide to Dogging , Misery Mondays

Feedback

User Date Notes
ed edwards 30 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal.
βeta?
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βeta: You will lose much skin. Great grate climb… safe but unexpectedly brutal.
Tom Randall - Lattice Training 12 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: If this gets up-graded to E2, then it'll be a disgrace. Very enjoyable and not particularly powerful as long as you know how to jam efficiently.
Duz Walker 24 May, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
βeta?
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βeta: Respect is due Mr Rowland, sir. Just exactly how deservedly pished did you get?
Neil Ireson 24 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One for those into perverse jamming pleasure and pain. I know a few climbers who generally onsight upto E3/4 who've failed on this route. It's a classic gritstone HVS 5b, far too hard to be an E1.
pdhu 24 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: I agree with the above comment because I wrote it.
Garan 8 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Climbed this today with a broken wrist. Bad move!! To quote John Allen, "Tape up children".

Logged Ascents

298 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 85
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 76
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Dogged
Onsighted
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Continent

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)

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