UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Independent and excellent. Climb the left side of the arete up to a crucial pocket and gear. Use this to gain the break above then make steep pulls into the hanging niche. Once established pull steeply up the flying edge above in a spectacular position. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Stanage HVS Challenge - All the 3* , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Every 3 Starred HVS and Under Gritstone , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , 3* HVS at Bamford, Stanage, Burbage, Millstone, Froggatt, and Curbar

Feedback

User Date Notes
Alan James - Rockfax 21 Mar, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I am pretty sure the line is on the left of the arete at this grade, using the pocket for two runners (wire behind pebble and medium cam). Once at the pocket moving back to the arete would be bizarre but that is the only gear and the move up the slab really nice and about 5a.
Show beta
βeta: I am pretty sure the line is on the left of the arete at this grade, using the pocket for two runners (wire behind pebble and medium cam). Once at the pocket moving back to the arete would be bizarre but that is the only gear and the move up the slab really nice and about 5a.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 39
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 35
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Gangue Grooves

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)

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