UKC

12m.

Rockfax Description
Follow the square groove just left of the arete to half-height then step left around the arete and climb a curving crack to a sloping ledge. Finish up rounded rock above. © Rockfax

FA. Al Parker 1959.

Ticklists

Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Severe Stanage , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 VS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Stanage - all the routes on Stanage in the 1964 Sheffield-Stanage area guidebook

Feedback

User Date Notes
milanboez 27 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: At 5 foot 8 the reach was nay bother when I sorted my feet out and committed - grade felt fair. Gear not great and much harder at the other end of 5 foot.
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βeta: At 5 foot 8 the reach was nay bother when I sorted my feet out and committed - grade felt fair. Gear not great and much harder at the other end of 5 foot.
Capricorn One 3 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Leaving the ledge above the nose on to the rounded top section is tricky for the short (5\'2\").
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βeta: Leaving the ledge above the nose on to the rounded top section is tricky for the short (5'2").
JB Vendeville 24 Jun, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: First bit was pleasant and not as hard as I made it in my mind. getting over the flake though was too much for me...maybe at 5 feet 6 the good hold eluded me. I escaped on the right in the corner.
βeta?
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βeta: First bit was pleasant and not as hard as I made it in my mind. getting over the flake though was too much for me...maybe at 5 feet 6 the good hold eluded me. I escaped on the right in the corner.
GermanAlex 29 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very reach dependent, there is a crucial (very good) hold which would make the difference between 4c-ish or significantly harder.
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βeta: Very reach dependent, there is a crucial (very good) hold which would make the difference between 4c-ish or significantly harder.
Max 6787 8 Aug, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Good varied route, worthy of more than its one star i think. The move off the midheight ledge is one that i found harder to contemplate than execute- it looks unlikely but does go at 4b.
βeta?
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βeta: Good varied route, worthy of more than its one star i think. The move off the midheight ledge is one that i found harder to contemplate than execute- it looks unlikely but does go at 4b.
Nick Smith - Climbers 8 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Lovely climbing around the arete and up the curving crack. Move off the ledge up the overhang is perhaps 4c, especially for the short.
βeta?
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βeta: Lovely climbing around the arete and up the curving crack. Move off the ledge up the overhang is perhaps 4c, especially for the short.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 103
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 85
Votes cast 88
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Flash Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Kinder Southern Edges)

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