UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
Rounded and bold. Start on the right and teeter leftwards up the slab until just right of the chimney. Pull through the overlap, rightwards (good runners at last) then back left, with difficulty and a poor pocket. Continue delicately up the slab to a large ledge and easy finish. A direct start is a bolder f5+. © Rockfax

FA. Martin Berzins 1978.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List

Feedback

User Date Notes
goi.ashmore 6 Oct, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Wolf Solent is much gnarlier than Slap n Spittle, and feels it
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Wolf Solent is much gnarlier than Slap n Spittle, and feels it
Frank the Husky 7 Jul, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: like mr reeve, i wasn't sure about the gear over the roof. when placing it you're in a groundfall position on relatively poor holds. the traverse out along the groove is certainly not trivial either. overall i thought this was a very serious route that felt harder than the given grade: "mild terror" kind of covers my feelings.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: like mr reeve, i wasn't sure about the gear over the roof. when placing it you're in a groundfall position on relatively poor holds. the traverse out along the groove is certainly not trivial either. overall i thought this was a very serious route that felt harder than the given grade: "mild terror" kind of covers my feelings.
Andy Reeve 30 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Was expecting this to be one of those 'stanage' E4s (like say the nearby slap and spittle) so it came as a wee bit of a shock when it wasn't! I didn't think the gear was that great, tough to place as you have to lock off to put in the first cam, which I thought was a tad flared (this may be my perception based in panic induced negativity mind you). The top wall has it's fair share of interest too. Good moves throughout however, well worth doing!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Was expecting this to be one of those 'stanage' E4s (like say the nearby slap and spittle) so it came as a wee bit of a shock when it wasn't! I didn't think the gear was that great, tough to place as you have to lock off to put in the first cam, which I thought was a tad flared (this may be my perception based in panic induced negativity mind you). The top wall has it's fair share of interest too. Good moves throughout however, well worth doing!
ste 4 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: are you allowed gear in the chimney you 'almost' get to at this grade? looked at it in the rain and it sort of looked like a logical thing to do.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: are you allowed gear in the chimney you 'almost' get to at this grade? looked at it in the rain and it sort of looked like a logical thing to do.

Logged Ascents

41 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage North

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 11 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 6
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Profit of Doom

Grade: E4 6b ***
(Curbar Edge)

Loading Notifications...