Rockfax Description
A bold line up the left edge of the buttress. Climb the leaning wall and head right to a flange. Mantelshelf to reach the break then move left and head up the delicate arete and slab above. © Rockfax
FA. Al Parker 1959.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+ , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Eastern Grit 2 star plus (HVS/VS/HS) , Stanage Plantation , Severe Stanage , The Gritlist , Stanage HVS Challenge , Eastern Grit 2015 - Top 500 HVS , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Fraser kid | 2 Aug, 2022 |
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βeta: The hardest and boldest bit on MM is the start, which is shared with this. There’s nothing else on MM that is bold or hard IMO, so either MM is soft or this should be E1 if MM is accurate grade. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The hardest and boldest bit on MM is the start, which is shared with this. There’s nothing else on MM that is bold or hard IMO, so either MM is soft or this should be E1 if MM is accurate grade. |
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| Si dH | 13 Dec, 2005 |
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βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: I reckon the crux is definitely the mantel to the break, hardish 5a and above a deck-out so a bit necky for HVS. I actually found this to be the lead-crux of MM too, and its harder tha nthe start of pot black too which is only about 4c but more intimidating and goes on longer. Theres one smeary 4c/5a move up the arete then a romp. |
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| shaun walby | 10 Oct, 2004 |
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βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful). | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: If you short you might have to jump and grab/slap for the first holds before moving up to get exstablished on the first break, probably 5a technical crux. Then its an easy traverse and a bottle job on the loverly arete (no gear good feet and a cool head useful). |
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| Albie | 9 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Bit off more than i could chew on this one. I'm not used to so much exposure and tried to bail out a couple of times. But perseverence, lack of any gear to hang on and a baying crowd got me to the top. |
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| Chris the Tall | 27 May, 2003 |
Show βeta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Very sensible to show this starting on the right (as for Millsoms) rather than the left (as for Pot Black). This way it's 5a rather than 5b, and more in keeping with the rest of the route, though possibly not as good |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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The Right Unconquerable
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Stanage Plantation)