Loading Notifications...
22m.

Rockfax Description
A great classic, mild at the grade but thrilling. Start as for Billiard Buttress to the deep break then move right for 3m. Step up and right to reach the blunt arete. Balance up to reach a large shallow pocket and use this to gain a scoop and easier rock trending left. Originally led with a single chockstone runner in the big break. © Rockfax

FA. Len Millsom 1962.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide), Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties, Pete's 150 Peak Extremes, Caff's Cool E1s List, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50, 3 Star Stanage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Stanage Plantation, Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions, Peak District Grit Graded List, Peak District Grit (2020) *** List, Eastern Grit Trip: The Best Of The Proposed Crags., Post-Covid19 Eastern Grit Targets.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Christheclimber 19 Dec, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This was my first extreme lead in 1978 - before friends, the only protection then was a large hex in the first break. Felt run out on the one piece of gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This was my first extreme lead in 1978 - before friends, the only protection then was a large hex in the first break. Felt run out on the one piece of gear!
Si dH 12 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: I found the crux on lead to be the start which felt very bold while mantling. The move up the arete felt tricker but very safe with good friernds by your feet. Any protection above this is unnecessary - the climbing is much easier. Didnt even notice the discussed flake unless you mean the one right on the arete by the friends - which I didnt use at all.
 
Show beta
βeta: I found the crux on lead to be the start which felt very bold while mantling. The move up the arete felt tricker but very safe with good friernds by your feet. Any protection above this is unnecessary - the climbing is much easier. Didnt even notice the discussed flake unless you mean the one right on the arete by the friends - which I didnt use at all.
Nick Smith - Climbers 16 Apr, 2002 Show βeta
βeta: Fabulous climbing on good holds, but little or no gear towards the top. Never sustained, although getting off the ground is particularly hard if you are short (apparently). Low in the grade.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Fabulous climbing on good holds, but little or no gear towards the top. Never sustained, although getting off the ground is particularly hard if you are short (apparently). Low in the grade.

Logged Ascents

1689 users have logged this
194 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 265
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 263
Votes cast 243
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lime Street Direct

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Willersley Castle Rocks)