Rockfax Description
A great test of nerve and ability; protection is adequate. Start up a crack then swing out left and make a fierce mantel to reach a creaky flake. Up this then move left up a shallow scoop to a ledge (crucial small cams). Layback up and teeter right, or move right and climb the headwall direct - a bit harder. © Rockfax
FA. Gabe Regan 1976.
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Eastern Grit: Top 50 , ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500 , Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Good E4s , World Graded List , Peak Rock/9/Gritstone in the Sixties , 50 of the Best , Ultimate E4 ticklist , James' Winter Grit ticklist , Rockfax Eastern Grit (2015) Top 50 , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Rockfax Peak Gritstone East (2001) Top 50 , On Peak Rock , Definitive Eastern Grit top 50- 2001, 2006 and 2015 editions , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 100 Best Routes on Grit , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , MUMC 2023 Fundraiser Routes , 2025 Benchmark
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Cake | 28 Apr, 2022 |
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βeta: KennaM's gear beta is so completely wrong, I wonder if it's joke anti-beta. | ||
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βeta: KennaM's gear beta is so completely wrong, I wonder if it's joke anti-beta. |
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| kenneM | 27 Oct, 2019 |
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βeta: Messed this up after the flake so putting putting this in here for next time... Red Camelot beside the mantel. Green Camelot above flake Use left hand in pocket Green Camelot and Red Alien above | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Messed this up after the flake so putting putting this in here for next time... Red Camelot beside the mantel. Green Camelot above flake Use left hand in pocket Green Camelot and Red Alien above |
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| willackers | 16 Sep, 2007 |
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βeta: Brilliant!!! Amazing route, even more exciting in strong winds ;) | βeta? | |
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βeta: Brilliant!!! Amazing route, even more exciting in strong winds ;) |
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| Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH | 7 Aug, 2006 |
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βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done, can't recommend it highly enough. | βeta? | |
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βeta: One of the most enjoyable routes I've done, can't recommend it highly enough. |
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| north country boy | 14 May, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Awesome route, one of best on grit at the grade! Final run out headwall adds to the excitement! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Awesome route, one of best on grit at the grade! Final run out headwall adds to the excitement! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation
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Off With His Head
Grade: E4 6b ***
(Stanage Popular)