UKC

Restricted Access

There are frequently problems with car crime in the Stanage area. DO NOT LEAVE ANY VALUABLES ON DISPLAY IN CARS OR MINIBUSES.

Camper vans are becoming an issue with local residents and farmers as their concerns over human waste (and contamination of water supplies) increase with the number of vans overnighting in the various parking areas and laybys there. Please respect this incredible area and the people living wihin it by not overnighting in campervans at Stanage - a number of formal campsites are available locally including North Lees campsite

 

Access restrictions under CRoW  sometimes apply to areas north of the causeway, these vary each year - see signing at access points, or check the PDNP website for closure dates.

2023 published closure dates are: - August 29th - 31st; September 1st, 4th-8th, 11th - 15th, 18th - 22nd and 25th - 29th; October 2nd - 5th

 

These closures do not affect any public rights of way or concessionary paths which remain open.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 May to 30 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ring ouzels are nesting on Stanage, Burbage and Bamford this year. The nest sites change quickly and frequently as ring ouzels often have several broods each year with different nest sites for each brood. On site signage will be up around any of the nest sites where climbing may impact on the birds and this is always up to date and accurate.

Stanage from High Neb westwards (and Bamford Edge, Moscar, Derwent & Hallam Moors) has a permenant dog restriction and in addition can be for land management reasons, as allowed under the CRoW Act (which allows the landowner to restrict access for up to 28 days per year). Full details of any restrictions and the areas affected can be found by searching for 'Stanage' on the Natural England open access maps website and scrolling to the restrictions section at the bottom of the page. 

These closures do not affect public rights of way (which remain open) or the concessionary paths to Stanage.

16m.

Rockfax Description
A great route which is easier (E1 5b?) for the tall. Climb the blunt arete on side-pulls to a ledge below the slab. Traverse out right to the arete then reach the horizontal break above with difficulty before traversing back left to the short finishing crack. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown 1955.

Ticklists

Stanage Routes BMC Graded List , Stanage E1 Challenge (1989 Guide) , Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day , Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List , Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List , Brown & Whillans Stanage , 3 Star Stanage , Definitive *** Peak Grit , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , 1964 Stanage Guide Extremes , 2022 Rockfax Eastern Grit Graded List , Dunc's ticklist , Peak grit , Original and best stanage extremes , Stanage 1956

Feedback

User Date Notes
MeMeMe 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: How are you supposed to do that initial traverse? I'm pretty sure it wasn't the way that I did it!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: How are you supposed to do that initial traverse? I'm pretty sure it wasn't the way that I did it!
Mark Stevenson 22 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Is the FA date correct as the route is listed in Eric Byne's 1951 'Climbs on Gritstone 2, The Sheffild Area' guide?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Is the FA date correct as the route is listed in Eric Byne's 1951 'Climbs on Gritstone 2, The Sheffild Area' guide?
Paul Evans 15 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Correct sequence crucial for the first traverse. Took 3 goes to find it :(. Top traverse no pushover. Dunno 'bout "hardest E1 in the peak", but I've certainly done easier E2's!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Correct sequence crucial for the first traverse. Took 3 goes to find it :(. Top traverse no pushover. Dunno 'bout "hardest E1 in the peak", but I've certainly done easier E2's!
Smelly Fox 4 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Desperate! Hardest E1 in the Peak?!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Desperate! Hardest E1 in the Peak?!

Logged Ascents

264 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Stanage Plantation

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Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 58
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 53
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Quietus

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Stanage North)

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