16m. Feedback
Rockfax Description
The wide black rift is oddly alluring. A short polished corner leads to easier ground heading for the large boulder blocking the rift. Either squeeze through the rat-hole that gripped Helfenstein, or do the Outside Exit at an exposed S 4a. © Rockfax
FA. Helfenstein - well almost. c1910.
Ticklists
Stanage Routes BMC Graded List, Through Routes!, Stanage 100 VD - VS, Peak Rock/2/ The Search For Difficulty Begins., Stanage for Crack Apprentices, Stanage Starred VDiffs, Stanage Chimney Tour, Type 2 Fun, CUMC Ticklist, Stanage 'Difficults', The Ultimate SUMC Ticklist, Welcome to CUMC, Memorable Climbs, Stanage Solo, Hard Very Silly - wet troglodytes, Level 1 Peak Trad Routes, Stanage green spot starters
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | |
|---|---|---|---|
| cragtyke | 20 Sep |
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βeta: outside finish | βeta? |
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βeta: outside finish |
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| Sean Kelly | 23 Sep, 2019 |
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βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: After much futile huffing & puffing, grapple & wrestle, swearing & gasping, battle & bash, scrapping and fighting, scuffling & tussle, screaming & shouting, in a vain hopeless wasted exertion that I utterly failed to negotiate an exit via squeezing through the vice-like crevice. So finally in desperation I resorted to the much easier outside finish at only S 4a. No small wonder Helfenstein gave up climbing immediately afterwards! |
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| Si dH | 28 Nov, 2005 |
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βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Utterly ungradeable. I tried it on a very wet day and it probably actually helped by making it more slippy. The rotue is a basically a mod with an exit that you can only do if youre thin, I would say HVD is a good grade for it, and needless to say I failed! |
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| Fidget | 30 Oct, 2005 |
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βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The chimney part was like a slimey river when I led this today, but it didn't matter as it's all about the last move. Just about managed to squeeze through with a lot of puffing and panting! Highly amusing, the the more you try and push with your feet, the more you get stuck. I tried it facing left, and by the time I realised I should have faced right it was too late to turn round! |
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| Simon Caldwell | 18 Apr, 2004 |
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βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'. | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: Not sure how you can grade this at all, let alone give it a technical grade. (The through route that is, the outside version is a different route and should have a different name). How about borrowing from the Yorkshire Grit guide and grading it 'Decidedly Difficult'. |
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| Dan_S | 29 Jun, 2003 |
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βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit! | βeta? |
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Show beta
βeta: The funniest route on grit I've found. Only the thin should risk the hole exit! |
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Route of Interest
Flying Buttress
Grade: HVD 4a ***(Stanage Popular)