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10m.

Rockfax Description
Trivial but popular. Climb the central chimney then traverse the break leftwards into the middle of the slab. Make a tricky mantelshelf move and continue delicately. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1979.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Eastern Grit (2006): Top 500, Ron Fawcetts 100 extremes in a day, Top 20 ticked Stanage starred E1s

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User Date Notes
LMS 22 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Run out...happy to be second!
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βeta: Run out...happy to be second!
climberchristy 21 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet.
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βeta: Good moves. The Rockfax description of 'trivial' is unfair. It's got very good moves on it albeit they are admittedly short-lived. Also it's tricky for 5b if you can't reach the good pocket and with gear below feet.
Dave Garnett 26 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest.
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βeta: It is 5c if you're short. But then lots of things are, and you can just escape off right after the crux if you can't reach. Seems a bit trivial and artificial for a star, to be honest.
Ropeboy 26 Apr, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!?
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree with the reach thing. I couldn't reach the pocket and it's a very hard pull, worth at least 5c. I got Satin 2nd go but couldn't do the 5b move!?
Jon Greengrass 4 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing
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βeta: Its lonely up there with your feet in the break. delightful climbing
Nick Smith - Climbers 21 Jul, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move!
βeta?
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βeta: I'd agree - at 5'10" I could reach the good pocket, but if you are much shorter you have to do a considerably harder move!

Logged Ascents

302 users have logged this
19 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 52
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 52
Votes cast 52
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Bouldered
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

Original Route Direct Start

Grade: E1 5b ***
(High Tor)